North Couloir

Approach

Park at Glen Alps and go about four or so miles down Powerline Pass. Ptarmigan Peak is highly visible the entire way down the trail on the right. When you come to the base of the peak, there is a trail leading to the right up a rocky hill. Take it up and into the boulder field to the base of the snowfield.

Route Description

The route starts out on a snowfield at the base of Ptarmigan Peak. One can look up and see the entire route to the summit.
Climb straight up the chute, moving to the left at the S-bend. Continue climbing up and head slightly right to take a more direct approach to the true summit. Heading straight up will lead you to a little ridge which will also take you to the summit. Once at the top, just below the true summit, it is only a five minute scramble to the top.

Descend via a walk off route on the Rabbit Creek side. If you are feeling dangerous, someone who is experienced and cautious can descend the same North Couloir they came up. Be careful though, it is steep, and one slip can prove to be deadly. People have died on this route before.

Read about the worst accident in Chugach State Park history here.

I glissaded down the entire couloir, navigating the several large rock outcrops along the way. It was incredibly fun and I was able to stay in control the entire way down to the snowfield. I went from top to bottom in less than 15 minutes.

Essential Gear

An ice ax is absolutely essential. Crampons are suggested as well as a helmet. Teams choosing to rope up should use pickets for a running belay.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

View North Couloir Image Gallery - 5 Images