North Early Winter Spire Chockstone

NEWS Chockstone route

Omar and I enjoyed a people free climb of this route on Friday, September 21, that dates back to 1950 according to Washington Pass Climbing book.  Right at our climbing grade, it proved a good challenge/reward experience. We found most of the old pitons on the route too.  I can remember pounding a few of those pins into rock around the state a few decades ago. Two things to say about the book (Washington Pass Climbing) description on this route... one is the new rap anchors that avoid rapping the climbing route are really good for one 60 meter rope. I am confused that the supertopo route page shows the rap anchors, but the description of descent says it overlaps the climbing route.  I did not find that so once past the the gully above the big chockstone. In other words, off the summit, the next three raps on new bolts does not interfere with climbing route we took.  The other note I would like to make, may be one of just my perspective, but the 5.7  short traverse moves at top of  pitch 2 that puts you on top of the huge chockstone does not allow you to "pull through moves on gear" ..if you were inclined to. You would pendulum back into your last gear... just saying my experience. Its about a 15 foot traverse. There is   that old quarter inch bolt still there in the middle, but there is no where I saw to put in gear you could "pull through on".  It was a "take my breath away" few steps that got my old heart beating... smiling when done, but who cares now??? we did it fine. Route description on Summitpost for this route is right on.  The description of the traverse is exactly as we found it. The rest of the pitches were good pro and fun.  I think its a great alternative to Becky route on Liberty Bell and definitely worth doing at the 5.7 grade.  Weather was very good, Larch trees were brilliant. As I have said before, just plain a great day in the mountains with a good friend.