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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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28.16847°N / 85.54803°E |
Route Type:
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Snow Climb/Small Glacier |
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Time Required:
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A few days |
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Difficulty:
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Alpine PD+ |
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Approach
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Route Description
A photo map is attached to support these words.
From Kyanjin head back towards Langtang and cross the Langtang Khola and double back following the well known trail towards the Ganja La. Follow this trail until you reach a point where you can establish a camp, typically at Branchen Kharka or Nyengang Kharka.Your choice will probably be determined by wherever the snow line occurs and camping just by it. You now have a choice, either to go for the summit from here or to establish a second camp just below the Ganja La at the beginning of a small glacial shelf. From this shelf, 16,700ft, cross the glacier in the direction of the crevasses to the foot of a shallow couloir leading to the North East Ridge. Climb up the couloir onto the ridge and follow the main summit. Overall time to the summit from high camp, 5-7 hours
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Essential Gear
Typical winter dress and gear: Crampons, ice axe, couple of slings, 3-4 snow stakes if you want to fix some lines, rope, personal belay device and carabiners.
Miscellaneous Info
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