North Ridge

Approach

Climbing this ridge has the great advantage that ascent and descent are not the same, but you still go back to the same place where you started. Moreover, the ridge is more interesting than the normal route. From the Weissmieshut 2950 m, follow the path that goes right up to the moraine of the Hohlaub glacier. Continue on the glacier, keep more the south side and head directly to the Lagginjoch 3500 m. 2 hours, no special problems. 30 minutes shorter from Hohsaas.

Route Description

Now follow the long ridge over several gendarmes. A dome demands climbing on the west side, some pitons are there. If
possible keep on the ridge. The rock is of medium quality. Up to 3830 m there is generally no ice, but often snow. After a short descent you will reach a snow or ice ridge, that is narrow and demanded the biggest concentration. Follow the snow ridge to the top. From the Weissmies hut: ca. 6-7 hours.

It should be possible to shorten the route by reaching the tower 3722 by its west ridge from Geissrücken and thus evading the dome.

Essential Gear

ice axe, rope, crampons, biners. The rocky part of the ridge does usually not ask for crampons.

Guide des Alpes Valaisannes, Volume IIIb, CAS (german or french)
Map Nr. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel 1:50'000
Map Nr. 1329 Saas 1:25'000
Map Nr. 284 Mischabel 1:50'000


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Literature and Maps

Images

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