North Ridge

Approach

Follow the Canyon Creek trailhead to its end at Wyant Lake (around 7 or 8 miles) on a well-maintained and steep trail. From the lake, head through moderate scree/alpine scrub toward the North Col.

Route Description

From the North Col, spectacular views can be had of both the Blodgett and Canyon Creek Drainages. Small patches of fairly steep grass winds its way up the NE side of the ridge. By heading toward small trees as we went up the ridge, my partner and I were able to replicate what appears to be a common route. Slings and rappel rings were found as we continued up, tree to tree. At a point when the trees peter out, it is best to gain the rige and stick to the ridge from there (it is also viable to climb directly under the summit (within a couple hundred vertical feet), before traversing back out to the ridge. The top of the ridge offers a scary "boardwalk" before a few easy (and less exposed) chimney-esque stemming moves to gain the summit.

DESCENT: Either downclimb (scary) or rappel the North ridge. It would be an extremely exposed downclimb. Another easy descent route seems to be down the West face, traversing around the SW ridge, and following the lower portion of the SE ridge down to where it becomes a relatively easy descent down to Wyant Lake. It involved a bit of tricky routefinding near the summit, but once you lose 50 feet of elevation, the SE route becomes far more moderate and less exposed.

Essential Gear

A rope is recomended for rappels, and for possibly protecting the ascent. The ascent is not too technical (just exposed), and a rope may not even be needed. There are plenty trees to sling off, and a couple of anchors are fairly well-established. Bring webbing, as the majority of the existing webbing wasn't in the best of shape. Bring slings/webbing, a few cams, and nuts if you wish to protect the ascent.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have any further information that you feel needs to be added to the page, please contact me. Thanks.