Approach
Please see the 'Getting There' section on the main page for driving directions to Yankee Boy Basin.
Route Description
The statistics for this climb can vary depending on where you leave your vehicle. From the major lot with an outhouse at 11,400', the stats are as follows:
RT Distance: 5.2 miles
Elevation Gain: 2300'
Gilpin Peak, route drawn in red
From your parking spot of choice on the Yankee Boy road, hike until you reach the beginning of the Wrights Lake Spur Trail. Take this trail past
Wright's Lake. This trail ultimately leads to Blue Lakes Pass, which is somewhat out of the way, so leave the trail and aim for the lowpoint of the ridge south of Blue Lakes Pass. From here, climb the ridge south, avoiding the major obstacles on their east side. You'll reach a point where these major obstacles become towering walls, and you'll be off the ridge crest for good and within what's better described as a wide-mouthed gully. The scree here is quite loose, so take your time with it! You'll want to stay as near to the walls as possible to avoid the loosest terrain.
Once you top out on Gilpin's summit ridge, you have an easy quarter mile to reach the summit. Along the way, you'll either climb
Gilpin's minor, north subpeak or skirt it on its west side.
Essential Gear
Climbing helmets are highly recommended! Crampons and an ice axe would be necessary for an ascent in spring or winter conditions.