NW Ridge Scramble

Overview

This is a Scramble Route that can be done without crossing any glaciers. I was attracted to it because I was climbing alone, and it is very accessible from the Kain Hut. This is a fairly difficult scramble and should only be attempted by those who are comfortable on 4th to low 5th class terrain.

Getting There

From the Kain hut hike the trail NW to the Applebee Camping area (~1km, 250m gain.) From the camping area you can access this route from either the Eastpost/Crescent Towers col or the loose gully leading up from the tarn to the Shoulder of Eastpost (see picture--it's the gully leading to the low-point on the skyline.) I went up from the col and down the gully, which worked out well since the gully is loose and allowed some nice scree skiing.

Route Description

From the shoulder above the tarn scramble up the ridge to the summit via the path of least resistance. You may end up doing some low 5th class moves if you're not careful. I stayed mostly on the North side of the ridge.

Essential Gear

I did this route in September in trail runners. There was a dusting of snow from that morning, but other than that the route was snow free.

You will want an ice axe and crampons if you're doing this earlier season, but you know that. And you also know that rescue is not readily available in this area, right? Just checkin.

Images

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