Revolution Ice Screw

 

Page Type Gear Review
Object Title Revolution Ice Screw
Manufacturer DMM
Page By JScoles
Page Type Nov 7, 2003 / Nov 7, 2003
Object ID 844
Hits 5997
Vote
DMM Revolution Ice screws have an ergonomic sculpted hanger that is easy to rotate with the palm of your hands without shredding your expensive ice climbing gloves. This unique hanger design is rope-friendly and allows the rope to be pass directly thru (if necessary), and to function as an emergency belay device.



  • Precision CNC engineered teeth & thread give instant ‘bite’


  • Outstanding innner & outer finish to tube giving ultra low friction


  • Nickle plated tubes


  • Generous clipping holes


  • Well radiused and formed clipping hole will also accept a rope for emergency rappell



Reviews


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JScoles - Nov 10, 2003 10:46 am - Voted 3/5

Untitled Review
The big claim to fame of these screws are their hangers which are rope-friendly , color coded and made of aluminium. This does cut down on the weight a little and it is the easiest manual screw I have ever had to place and I guess it is nice to be able to belay or rap off it without hurting your rope.



Like all DMM gear they are beautifully made and finished with alot of attention to detail. They do start nice with a good bite, have very sharp teeth and they sharpen easily. Great in soft and medium ice but in the rock hard ice of –30c they go not in as good as the BDs express or even the OPs. Of course, they are not as fast as any one with a knob but they are easer on the gloves and hands that any other non-knob screw out there.



The one I have just retired I picked up as some booty a few seasons back and it has spent the majority of its time hanging off my rack or as a backup for a top-rope. Compared to other even cheaper screws it is in poor shape for only a few seasons. It has a lot of dings and scratches and the hanger is a little bent of shape from putting it into very hard ice and trying to start it out again by cranking on it with an ice axe. This leads me to wonder if these screws would stand up to same amount of abuse that my BDs can take.



What little advantage the lower weight and easily handling of the hanger is quickly spent by its relatively high price (about the same as a BD Turo express or Grivel 360). A nice screw but just not worth the money.


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