Parapet Corner, 5.9, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Parapet Corner is a relatively obscure route on the right side of the Castle.  It is such a short route, that it makes for an obvious choice to combine with the more popular 5.10 routes to the left to complete a day of climbing.  Although called Parapet Corner, it is way off to the right of the “Parapet” where some classics such as the Throne Room are located.  It is located on another leaning tower against the main wall which could be named Parapet as well, but is not.  Rather the first pitch lands behind the top of the James Brown Pillar.  The 2^nd pitch does not start in a corner but rather a hand-finger splitter with not near the quality of rock that is located on the actual Parapet.  Near the top, it turns into an arcing left leaning corner.  There are two options, you can start in the arcing corner and traverse left to a wide splitter at a small tree, or stay in the corner placing finger pieces whilst essentially climbing the face. 

This route is overrated with praise on MP.com, but is still worth doing if you are looking to tick off most of the moderates on the Castle.

On approach, locate the second parapet looking tower to the far-right side of the Castle.  When you get closer, you will see that there is a blunt tower in front (James Brown).  Climb the left side of this tower (5.7) to reach the notch behind it which is the base of the tower above.  The 2nd pitch splitter starts in this notch (photo to the left).

Route Description

1st Pitch- 130’- 5.7/ Climb a 5th class wide crack to the left of a gully to the left of James Brown Pillar and land a ledge.   Climb a 5.7 narrow chimney to a notch behind the massive pillar. 

2nd Pitch- 135’- 5.9/ Not anything near as long as the Fixed Pin guide has it (180’).  MP.com’s only route log as of 2022 inferred this was a 5.10 crack.  It is not and in comparison to other Castle routes it maybe is 5.9+ at most. Start up the hand crack on sharp and less clean granite than found on the Castle's left end.  The crack steepens and gets into some fingers.  Eventually land a stance below a left and right option.  The cleaner variation if the right one.  The one on the left is chossy and has a tree in it.  To do both, step up in the right corner and traverse left to the left crack just below the tree.  Continue up to the top of this crack and stem back to the top of the arcing corner.  Continue up to a ledge with a healthy tree (2022) climbers left. 

Descent

Traverse climbers right over an exposed 5th class move to the notch.  Descend either direction.  Both involve short 5th class downclimbing.

Essential Gear

Single from #.3 to #3 along with a few extra medium pieces if doing the left variation of pitch 2 or extra finger pieces if doing the right variation.  Southeast facing.  60m rope. Haul approach shoes for the scramble down.