"Petite Capucin"

Overview

"Petite Capucin” (Elevation ca. 12,250 feet) Sawtooth Ridge Yosemite National Park, California, USA

The "Petite Capucin" is a tower northeast of Matternhorn Peak. It is an impressive and familiar sight for those hiking across the Matterhorn Glacier to the north face of Matterhorn Peak. The rock is a fine-grained granite with numerous horizontal dikes. The first recorded climb of the “Petite Capucin” was in 1972. The second recorded climb was in 1979. Both routes are on the north face.

The north faces of "Petite Capucin" and Matterhorn Peak

Getting There

The approach to the "Petite Capucin”is the same for the North Arete of Matterhorn Peak.

Routes

There are only two documented routes on the “Petite Capucin.” Both are on the north face. -North face (II, 5.8, 1972) The location of this route is unclear. -Pillar Route (III, 5.10, 1979) This route is significant because it involves jumping (!) from the summit of The Pillar over to a ledge on the main tower. If you know of any other routes on the “Petite Capucin,” please add them or contact me.

Descent

Rappell southwest, into Matterhorn Peak's East Couloir. This photos shows the descent route:

The southwest side of "Petite Capucin" from Matterhorn Peak's East Couloir. Photo by vladislav

Administrative Remarks

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