"Plan B" Couloir

Overview

This is an excellent snow climb on the south face of Mt. Guyot. The couloir is steep and sustained, with a maximum slope angle of around 60 deg. As the line faces south, it is probably best climbed in early spring.

Getting There

In the town of Jefferson (16 mi north of Fairplay, 4.5 mi south of Kenosha Pass on Hwy 285), turn west onto the paved Michigan Creek Rd (Co Rd 35). After 3 mi, take the right fork to stay on Michigan Creek Rd (Co Rd 54). After 2.5 mi, turn left.

Drive up the road until you're stopped by snow. In March 2012 we were able to drive an additional 2.5 mi with a high-clearance SUV.

Approach

Continue up the road. At 11000', turn left (west) off the Michigan Creek Rd and follow the switchbacks or travel due northwest to the cirque (see Route Map). Once in the cirque, continue to the northwest wall where two obvious lines top out on the ridge west of the summit. Plan B is on the right.

Route Description

Follow the obvious couloir. The slope quickly rears up from 30 to 45 deg. for the first 200', which yields to a sustained 55-60 deg. climb for the last 400'. It finishes on the ridge west of the summit; it is possible that a cornice will form over the exit. Gain the ridge and scramble to the summit. Maximum difficulty on the ridge is easy 3rd class. Descend via the standard northeast ridge route, or ski down the couloir!

Essential Gear

Crampons, mountaineering axe, and helmet. A second tool may be useful.

Route Map

Images

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