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9123 Hits
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71.84% Score
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2 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.02370°N / 7.88560°E |
Route Type:
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Glacier Climb / Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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PD+, II+/III-, 50º |
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First Climb
Leslie Stephen and Robert Liveing with guides Melchior Anderegg and Johann Zumtaugwald on September 9th, 1859; via Fluhalp and Rimpfischwänge.
Approach
From Zermatt by tunnel funicular railway to Sunnega (2,288 m), from there by cableway to Blauherd (2,560 m) and S-Eastwards down to the Stellisee. Continue to Hotel Fluhalp (2,616 m), the base of the climb.
Route Description
"The Alpine 4,000m Peaks by the Classic Routes" by Richard Goedeke (1993 edition) in page 101 says:
"From Flue, head east for about 1 Km to small moraine lakes. The path now goes obliquely left up over the pasture and debris slopes of the Usseri Rimpfischwang and finally through a block labyrinth and over marl slopes or snow up to the Pfulwe saddle (3,155 m, between Spitzi Flue and Pfulwe). Traverse to the N of Pfulwe (3,314 m) to reach a not very prominent shoulder over a somewhat low snow-field, and from this make a rising traverse over the NE face (crevasses) to the Langfluejoch (3,270 m). (This point can also be reached from the head of the valley above Täschalpe by a S-Easterly line over moraines and the moraines and the lower Langfluh Glacier)".
"Continue up the broad rock-studded ridge and later on the not very defined ridge edge (II and I) up to the snowy West Summit (4,009 m) and the Rimpfischsattel beyond (3,985 m, 4 hours from Flue). This point can also be reached from the Britannia Hut (or the Täsch Hut) via the Allalinpass then taking a line across the slopes below the NW face (5 hours, AD, III/IV)".
"From the West Summit head E up an icy snow slope and into a couloir between two rock ribs (best taken close to the right) flanking rocks. After about 50 m of climbing quit the tempting direct line which leads to a tiring thrash and traverse left (N) over ledges and a recess to a notch on the W Ridge of the foresummit. Climb directly up the stepped ridge edge on good firm holds using the right flank an one point on a slab (II+), to gain the foresummit. Go down into the notch beyond, then scramble up the exposed ridge to the main summit (1-2 hours from Rimpfischsattel)".
Essential Gear
Rope for a team, crampons, ice axe and winter clothes.