Roda del Diavolo

Overview

Roda del Diavolo 2723 m

Roda del Diavolo 2723 m is an interesting summit belonging to the Catinaccio group, Roda di Vaèl subgroup.  It's just an uncrowded summit, above all if compared to the famous and much more visited Roda di Vaèl and Croz di Santa Giuliana, both located in the immediate vicinity. Just in front to the North we see Croz di Santa Giuliana, also named Torre Finestra, in reason of the huge hole on its wall.

The summit offers a spectacular view of the nearby Roda di Vaèl and Croz di Santa Giuliana and many other summits of the Catinaccio group, such as the the Catinaccio main summit, the Cima Mugoni and the Dirupi di Larsèc. Further in the distance we can recognize the Latemar group to the South and to the North the Sassolungo group, the Sass Pordoi and the Marmolada. 

Getting There

The starting point to climb Roda del Diavolo is the Refuge Roda di Vael, easily reached from Ciampedie along the path n. 545 or from the Rifugio Paolina along the path n. 539.

Road access  

- From Bolzano take the Val d’Ega road, reach Nova Levante, the beautiful Lago Carezza and the Passo di Costalunga 1753 m. From here take the path to the Roda di Vaèl Hut m. 2283 (1,30 hours). Otherwise, more shortly, it’s also possible to use the chair lift - starting below the pass - to the refuge Paolina and hence reach the Rifugio Roda di Vaèl through the path 539, passing near the memorial to Christomannos. (40 minutes).

- From Vigo di Fassa take the cable car to the Ciampedie

Spigolo Gross

Spigolo Gross

Summit altitude: 2723 m
Difficulty: UIAA IV max
Length: 180 m, 8 pitches
Exposure: ESE
First ascent: A. Gross, G. Pasolli in the Fifties

A deserving route, not particularly difficult, on almost always excellent rock. The views from the summit are wide and excellent. The belays are equipped or can be equipped with quick protections, there is also a few pegs along the pitches, for the rest you can protect yourself on holes, outcrops  and cracks. Attack at a blackish niche.

Access from Rifugio Roda di Vaèl

On the left of the Rifugio Roda di Vaèl take the path signs (signposts Ferrata Masarè and Torre Finestra) which climbs above the hut in the direction of the rocky wall of the Croz di Santa Giuliana, up to a triple crossroads where you continue straight in the middle going up the grassy slope with numerous hairpins ( directions "Via Ferrata del Masarè"). The track quickly gains altitude towards the rocky ramparts to the left of the Croz di Santa Giuliana, cut by some vertical chimneys. Continue the steep climb towards the rocks, getting a small terrace at the base where meet the first fixed iron ropes. Always following the wire ropes, climb up to the right to a grassy pulpit and then climbing a small gully reach a narrow chimney formed by a rock leaning against the main wall. The chimney is equipped with iron pegs and a ladder. The chimney exits on a ledge that leads to the edge of the vast and characteristic grassy basin between the Roda del Diavolo on the left and the Croz di Santa Giuliana on the right ("Pas del Ciavàl"). 

At a crossroads there are two paths, take the lower (the horizontal path leading to the second part of the Ferrata del Masarè) in the direction of the well visible Roda del Diavolo. At the base of the rocks leave the main path and reach the wall in a few minutes.

L1 - Climb the little wall above the niche, then oblique easily to the left next to a yellow pillar, traverse left under the pillar and reach a yellow niche at the base of a long and steep channel. Belay in the niche on a hole, III, then II, 50 m.
L2 - Climb up on excellent rock to the left of the yellow pillar and reach a small terrace, from which obliquate  to the left to a big hole, where you stop, III +, IV, 35 m
L3 - Up on a slab cut by cracks on the left of an overhanging dihedral,  then traverse to the right taking the main gully (peg). Cross the gully, reaching easier rocks, then climb a slab to get the base of a dihedral-crack, IV-, 50 m

L4 - Up a fine dihedral on the right, pass a more difficult stretch and exit on the edge. To the right on easier rocks to belay at the base of the last section of the ridge,  IV-, 50 m
L5 - Climb up the exposed ridge, exiting on the easy summit crest, IV-. 35 m 

Follow the summit crest of easy rocks, getting the summit cairn

Descent: along the Normal route

From the summit follow a track (cairn) on the East side heading to the North (in the direction of the Croz di Santa Giuliana, just in front). The descent is simple with some easy climbing (I grade).  You will soon reach the saddle between the Roda del Diavolo and the Croz di Santa Giuliana, from where skirting the wall of the Croz di Santa Giuliana shortly to the Pas del Ciavàl. From here reverse the Via Ferrata to the hut.  

 Other routes

On the West wall:

- Diretta Ovest  
- Villgratner
- Placche del Baèl
- Kafmann on the NW wall 

Red Tape

No fees and no permits required.  Croz di Santa Giuliana and the entire Catinaccio Group is situated in the Natural Park Sciliar-Catinaccio- Latemar, a park located inside one of the 9 areas of the Dolomites approved in the UNESCO natural sites.  More info about Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage Site in this article by Silvia Mazzani on SP: Dolomites, living mountains     

When to Climb

The best season is summer (from the end of June to the end of September)

Huts

* Rifugio Roda di Vaèl Access: from Passo Costalunga via the path 548, from Rifugio Paolina via the paths 539 and 549, from Rifugio Ciampedie via the path 545, from Vigo di Fassa via the paths 547 and 545. 

* Rifugio Pederiva Access. see the previous hut

* Rifugio Paolina m 2125 Access: by chair lift from Lago Carezza 1620 m. or by walk from Passo Costalunga 

Bibliography

* “La nuova guida del Catinaccio” by Antonio Bernard, Ed. Mediterranee, 2008 
* “Catinaccio” by Dante Colli and Gino Battisti, Tamari Editori in Bologna, 1984
* Map TABACCO n. 06 - Val di Fassa e Dolomiti fassane

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