Saint John's Ledges, 5.2-5.10

Overview

Named after Timothy St. Johns, who owned the property in the 1800's, Saint John's Ledges consists of two separate small, east-facing climbing areas located on the Appalachian Trail in Kent, Connecticut. This area, like most Connecticut areas, is mostly top-rope and traditional climbing.

Routes

Upper Climbing Area: Appearances being deceiving, this slabby face is over 100 feet tall in places. A 60m rope will help in roped descent, or a walk-off to the right once you reach the top. To set up on top, also approach from the right before reaching the cliff face. Continuing beyond the cliff and up the Appalachian Trail to the top will only put you way above the area you need to be. Right to left:

Super Slab - 5.5-5.10 - TR, Large open slab on the right end, 100 feet high, with a horizontal crack running across at 15 feet up.
Athlete's Feet - 5.10+ - Just to left of the 20-foot left-facing corner climb the smooth face past a former bolt to an overlap, then continue up the slab to the top.
Slickrock - 5.10+ - TR, 15 feet left of the former bolt of Athlete's Feet is a smooth face with a black streak 6 feet off the ground. Climb the black streak and pass it on the right, continuing straight up the face to the top.
Blisters - 5.7 - 50 feet from the first series of slabs is a steep crack with a small overlap and a left-facing inside corner. Climb the small corner, pull the overlap, and then follow the crack.
Trail Magic - 5.8+ - The most obvious line on the crag. 30 feet left of Blisters is a small overhang, about 15 feet up, with a crack running straight to the top. The crack becomes very thin before getting easier.

Lower Climbing Area: a smaller and much shorter area than the upper, but of much higher quality. Most of the climbs here are 20-30 feet. Right to left:

First Timer - 5.4 - 6 feet from the right edge of the cliff. Start at the short right-facing inside corner, and follow the crack for 15 feet to the top.
Fly - 5.9 - TR, An arm's length left from First Timer, follow a thin seam to a 3-inch crack at the top.
Try or Fly - 5.7 - Just left of Fly is a diagonal crack that goes left up a small ramp and continues to a dirty finger crack.
Try - 5.2 - 6 feet left of the diagonal crack is a large crack system that leads to the top.
Gumby to Greatness - 5.10 - TR, Just to the right of the lichen covered slab is a thin seam that starts halfway up. Climb the face to the seam and follow it all the way up.
Wilderness Crack - 5.3 - A large crack with a large boulder at the top.
The Graduate - 5.10 - 5 feet to the left of Wilderness Crack is a rectangular depression with a rock halfway up. Face climb to the depression and follow the thin seam and face moves to the top.
Workout in the Woods - 5.6 - 6 feet to the left of the Graduate, and just to the right of the overhang, is a thin seam that widens to 6 inches with a tree in the middle of it.

Directions

From Kent center, at the monument in the middle of the intersection of Routes 7 and 341, head west on Route 341 past the Dodge dealership and over the bridge. Immediately after the bridge make a right onto Skiff Mountain Road. After about a mile bear right onto a dirt road, River Road. This road is not maintained in the winter and may be impassable after a good storm. You will pass numerous pull-offs for 1.6 miles until you reach the correct parking area, on the left. Follow the white-blazed Appalachian Trail uphill from parking area. To reach the lower climbing area look for a faint trail, on the left, 35 feet past the trail map box. To reach the upper climbing area, stay on the Appalachian Trail until it passes directly by the bottom of the cliff band.

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