South flank (normal route)

Approach

From Linard hut, follow the good path up Val Glims. Pass some small lakes and climb over rubble to the area of P. 2860.

Route Description

The first goal is the square field of rubble (visible from the hut and on the map). Enter the left of two couloirs and climb it. Traverse to the right, slightly ascending, to the lower left of the field of rubble. Climb it all the way and enter another couloir. Climb in the couloir or use the rocks on its right, until you reach the Southwest ridge. Follow the final section of this ridge to the summit.

Note:
If there's no snow/ice, this is a rather easy climb. You'll find traces or even some kind of path as well as some cairns.
There's a certain danger of rockfall all along this route. Be aware of this, if several groups are moving at the same time in the flank!

Essential Gear

If conditions are good (no ice), just normal hiking gear (take sturdy boots).

Difficulty

The difficulty of this route is hard to judge. I climbed it in late summer, when no snow or ice were in the flank. As this summer (2003) had been exceptionally hot, this kind of conditions may be unusual. There was a path or traces and cairns almost all the way. There was almost no real climbing, so it really seemed quite easy.

A few years ago, the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) published a new scale for alpine hiking. This scale was meant to replace the old scale (B/EB/BG) and it has been used in the newest SAC guidebooks. It is very important to understand that an easy alpine route (scale F/PD etc.) is easier than a hard "alpine hike" (T5/T6). The difference lies in the type of difficulties and terrain. It is, however, often hard to decide whether a certain route is an alpine hike or a mountaineering route.

Piz Linard is mentioned as a reference route for "T6" on the new scale. However, if you compare it to other routes of this grade (e.g. Via Alta Verzasca) and talk to guidebook authors, it is obvious that this is not quite correct. In good conditions, the normal route to Piz Linard has difficulties of the type "T5".

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.