South Ridge direction

Getting There

Bivouac II

Bivouac II (2118m)is accessible from Poldov rovt (cca 900m) in two or three houres. The path begins near Poldov rovt wich lies two kilometers before Aljaz Hut. Then you turn from the main road to unmarked path right uphil through beech forest. Pleasant hunting path is ascending zigzags thrue forest. The landscape opens after half an houer of walk and on the other side of the valley the sight stops on the nord wall of Triglav. The south approachs can be in summer hard. Sun rays can be very annoying because they warm our backs. There in direction of red rock is source of Red stream. On this place we can provide ourselves with some wather. From here up to bivouac II extends scree of litlle stones. You need one houre till one hour and half to reach bivouac II.

see also Veliki Oltar description by Bor

Route Description

From bivouac II

From bivouac II.we must go to the west, towards Rokavi ridge. Over grassy pateaou Na Jezerih (On the Lakes – there is no lakes) we go to the scree under Visoki Rokav (High Sleeve). At the end of scree boulder closes entry to the gorge of Visoki Rokav.

The Gorge of Rokavs

From here you must be very careful. Above us is steep, narrow and rubish gorge. There is in snowless conditions hi objective risk of stone crumble. Dont go up if you are not sure there are any climbers above you. In early spring or in winter the gorge is snowed up. In this conditions Crampons and ice-axes are one of the necessary equipment. If you succed climb up over boulder 5 m II+ to the notch of gorge (2300m) you need one hour.

From the notch

From the notch are two directions. First is directly from notch (South ridge) and second (Normal access) is aproximatly 20m lower in gorge. In South ridge direction we start from top of the notch in the wall. First we climb right and up over slabs to secure place (II/III UIAA). Another rope lenght we climb again right and up thru short chimny in direction stone tine II/III. Over shelf we cross left round stone tine and try to find second secure place. At this place it looks like it is the end of path. The ridge before us is sharp like knife. On the right side we find out narrow ledge, wich widers after 5 meters. After this passage we reach litlle plateau in the same height as second secure place. From here troubles are almost gone. Then we go towards summit of the ridge (two ropes I/II UIAA). Little before summit of Visoki Rokav you can catch sight on the big stone in form of pear with two pins for descent. Here is crossing of two directions – Normal and South ridge direction. From notch to the summit we need aproximatly one hour and thirty minutes.

Face to face with Middle Rokav

Summit of Visoki Rokav

In background of summit is Veliki Oltar

Essential Gear

Rope, helmet, ... helmet again
In early spring or in winter also crampons and ice-pick is neccessary equipment

External Links

See also:
Veliki Oltar

Images

View South Ridge direction Image Gallery - 8 Images