Spigolo Gross-Momoli

Overview

Sass Pordoi - Spigolo Gross-Momoli

Sass Pordoi 2950 m is a massive mountain, one of the most impressive peak on the fortress of Sella Group and one of the most fascinating destinations in the Western Dolomites. The summit is a karst tableland connected to the huge Sella plateau. Towards North West and West the mountain shows a compact and steep rock wall 800 meters drop, while to the South-East (side Pordoi Pass) it stands out a series of vertical gray-yellow pillars 300 meters high. Here we can find side by side three of the most classic routes of Sass Pordoi and of the whole Sella Group: Spigolo Piaz, Via Maria and Spigolo Gross-Momoli, this latter running along the ridge situated to the right of the easiest Via Maria. Spigolo Gross allows a fine and varied climb on excellent gray and yellow “dolomia” with many opportunities for natural protections.

Summit

Getting There

The starting point to approach the SE wall routes is Passo Pordoi.

Road access to Passo Pordoi

The shortest approach is by Brennero Motorway

- Coming from Trento or Verona - Take the A22 Brennero Motorway and exit Egna-Ora. Take the road SP 232 to Val di Fiemme, then SP 238 to Val di Fassa, getting to Cavalese, Predazzo, Moena, Pera di Fassa and Canazei. In Canazei take the road SP 242 to Passo Sella rising with several hairpin bends and reaching a crossroads. At the junction turn to right towards Passo Pordoi, getting to the pass.

- Coming from Bolzano or Brennero Pass - Take the A22 Brennero Motorway and exit Ponte Gardena-Waldbruck. Follow the road SS242 through Val Gardena, getting to Ortisei, Selva di Val Gardena and Passo Sella. The road descends towards Val di Fassa reaching a crossroads. Turn to left towards Passo Pordoi, getting to the pass.

Route Description

Spigolo Gross-Momoli report – UIAA scale

Summit altitude: m. 2956
Difficulty: D+, max UIAA V
Equipment: pegs
Climbing length: 430 m
Exposure: South-East
First ascent: A. Gross – G. Momoli 1963, September 3rd
Starting point: Passo Pordoi

A stunning classic climb of the Sella Group. The route offers some of the different styles of Dolomites' climbing, as dihedrals, walls, cracks and chimneys.

Walking approach

From Passo Pordoi m. 2239 take the path n. 627 to Forcella Pordoi heading towards the South East face. After half an hour leave the main path and take on the left a narrow trail rising to the left and getting to the starting point of the route. 1 hour from Passo Pordoi.

Route report

L1 - Climb the yellow corner-crack, at first along the right branch, then along the left one, to a stance on a pillar. IV, V-, 40 m.
L2 – Head to right to get the corner again and climb it, then exit to the right on the edge and reach a wide ledge. Belay on the ledge. IV, V-, 35 m.
L3 - To the right on yellow rock, then return left and climb a crack’s system reaching a narrow ledge. IV, V, 35 m.

L4 – Follow the ledge to the left as far as the wall above becomes easier. Climb the wall and reach a small terrace. To the left of the small terrace climb the steep wall above and reach a good stance to the right. IV, IV+, 40 m.
L5 – Traverse left on a narrow ledge to a clessidra, then climb straightly on a fine carved wall getting a stance under a white-yellow wall. IV, IV+, 30 m.
L6 – Climb the wall reaching a niche, up a little overhang, then head to a narrow saddle on the edge bellow a yellow pinnacle. IV, V , 40 m.
L7 – Up a short yellow wall on the left of the edge, reaching a ledge below the summit of the yellow pinnacle. Climb a chimney, then traverse left along steps and ledge towards a gully and belay 10 meters before the gully near the exit of Via Maria. IV, V-, 40 m.
L8 – Traverse left to the gully and follow it then climb a short steep wall. III
Now the ground becomes easier. Follow the debris steps car on the left of a rocky tower in view of the upper station of the cable car getting to the summit. II, I, 170 m.

Descent: from the summit tableland take the path to Forcella Pordoi reaching the shelter just on the saddle, then follow the path n. 627 going down along a steep scree and getting the Pordoi Pass.

Essential Gear

The route is equipped by pegs, bring only normal climbing equipment and some friends and nuts to integrate.

Red Tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Accomodation

The closest resort is Passo Pordoi (hotels and huts), otherwise you can stay in Canazei, a primary resort in Val di Fassa (about 12 km. from Passo Pordoi).

When to climb

The best period goes from June to the end of September

Meteo

Meteo Trentino
Dolomiti Meteo - Trentino

Guidebooks and maps

"IV grado - Dolomiti Occidentali Vol. I" by Emiliano Zorzi - Idea Montagna ed.