Overview
This is an extremely easy but fun route in the wonderful val Rosandra, it is a perfect idea for anyone visiting this area and in need of a nice and relaxing "tour climb".
Getting There
From the refuge Premuda, near the village of Bagnoli, take the path that leads to the church of Santa Maria in Siaris. Pass the church which is located about thirty meters from the path and keep going straight, until you pass the large slabs highly inclined. Just after these slabs exit the trail and scramble up the rubble and stone slide beneath the wall on the far left of the slabs. Be careful not to move rocks as the trail continues just below the scree.
The starting point of the route is located between the trees at the base of the wall, about twenty meters on the left end of the slabs, at the entrance of a small cave.
Route Description
The route is divided in four pitches.
I pitch
XX meters, difficulty 3c
On the right side of the cave, climb a short wall (some unstable stones are present) that will take you just above the mouth of the cave. Go to the right of a small tree that grows up front and follow the anchors that go to the right.
Once near a small gravel scree that goes to the left, you have to walk up to the belay anchor which is located on another small vertical wall at the top of the gravel section (you will need a rope at least 70 mt long). You can also belay using an outcrop of rock that lies at the base of the gravel section, and then walk to the beginning of the second pitch.
II pitch
XX meters, 3
Climb the small dihedral and exit on the right, then continue without any difficulty to the base of an exposed edge of rock. On the right you will find a small terrace and belay anchors.
III pitch
XX meters, difficulty 3c
Up along the edge, easy but exposed, rising slightly to the right until the belay anchors.
IV pitch
XX meters, difficulty 3b
After the block of stone on which the anchors are there is an exposed slab on the right, once there, a few more meters to left will lead you to the end of the route.
scramble up to the belay anchors, near the commemorative plaques and the monument in honor of Emilio Comici.
You can walk down to the church following the trail.
Essential Gear
Basic climbing gear, helmet, 10 quickdraws, some slings and carabiners for belaying.
External Links
Spigolo verde