Page Type: | Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon: | 51.87140°N / 5.26685°W |
County: | Pembrokeshire |
Activities: | Trad Climbing |
Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
Elevation: | 82 ft / 25 m |
It was upon these cliffs, in the midst of a great storm, that an unfortunate young noblewoman gave birth to the boy who was to become Wales’ patron saint. Subsequently, she would herself be canonised and the bay named after her, which given the violence of the young David’s conception and birth, is frankly the least that could be have been done for her. A holy well was founded on the spot and a chapel built nearby, and when the chapel fell to rack and ruin, a second chapel was built nearby. Consequentially, the bay has been a place of pilgrimage for nearly 1,500 years. These days another sort of pilgrim frequents the bay; they come laden with rope and rucksack, speak of the bay in unintelligible jargonistic expressions and wear shiny metal trinkets around their waists. They are of course climbers, and they come to the bay to tackle its short sandstone cliffs that it is now best known for. These cliffs yield a variety of routes of varied grade and quality, the best of which are generally found on the bay’s eastern side. The most popular lines are to be found on the wonderfully clean Initiation Slabs, which forms the western side of a shallow inlet just to the east of the chapel. The crag is a haven for the low to mid grade climber, with its best route Aires (VS 4c), being worth the trip alone. Square Bay also sports a handful of good mid grade routes, while those searching for something a bit tougher will find satisfaction on the bay’s most westerly crag, the Velvet Wall. There is much to be recommended here and once all feasible options have been exhausted, there is much to recommend nearby too; for St. Non’s is just a short walk from some of Pembroke’s other great crags. A quick stroll to the east will bring you first to Porth-y-Ffynnon and then to Porth-Clais, while a slightly longer walk to the east will bring you first to Craig Caerfai and then to Caerbwdi Bay. Each of these spots is home to its own classics and is worth a trip in its own right, making this little stretch of coast the perfect place to spend a few days of very pleasant climbing. |
The routes at St. Non's Bay are strung along the length of its broad and are largely confined to seven separate walls or sub-bays. These are namely Velvet Wall, Corduroy Slab, Lunar Bay, Pinnacle Bay, Initiation Slabs, Good Friday Slab and Square Bay. Of these, Initiation Slabs is by far the best, having a good number of routes in a good number of grades. There are also good routes on the Velvet Wall and Square Bay. Routes are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the old Climbers' Club Guide to Pembroke, the old Pembroke Supplement and the 2009 Rockfax Pembroke guide. Since then, the Climbers' Club have published a new comprehensive guide for this area, Pembroke Volume 1: Pembroke North, which adds a significant number of new crags and routes to the area, though the changes to this pages' crags are few. Neverthless it is recommended that you refer to this or the Rockfax book for up-to-date information and route descriptions. In addition to these sources Rockfax’s website also has descriptions for the routes included in its book, which can be viewed on its online route Database. Routes are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available: download it here. With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited everywhere in Pembroke, so don’t even think about it here. Route Symbols:
Velvet Wall
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No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Adjectival Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
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1. | Shiraz | 14m | 1 | E1 | 5b | ||
2. | Chinon | 14m | 1 | HVS | 5a | ||
3. | Blabber | 14m | 1 | S | 4b | ||
4. | Smoke | 14m | 1 | HS | 4c | ||
5. | Graper Scraper | 14m | 1 | HS |
No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Adjectival Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
6. | Back to the Water | 15m | 1 | M | |||
7. | Grow Fins | 18m | 1 | VD | |||
8. | Take Up with a Mermaid | 18m | 1 | D | |||
9. | Landlubbing Women | 18m | 1 | D |
No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Adjectival Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
10. | Mortice Corner | 15m | 1 | VD | |||
11. | Padlock Arête | 15m | 1 | D | |||
12. | Peeping Tom | 21m | 1 | VD | |||
13. | Keyhole Groove | 18m | 1 | HS | 4a |
No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Adjectival Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
14. | St. Non's Pinnacle | 50m | 2 | HS | |||
15. | The Calling | 50m | 3 | VS | 4c | ||
16. | James Bond | 15m | 1 | S | 4a |
No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Adjectival Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
17. | Tide Watch | 23m | 3 | VS | |||
18. | Tide Watch Variation | 18m | 2 | HS | |||
19. | Spock | 24m | 1 | HVS | 4c | ||
20. | Cormorant Front | 12m | 1 | VD | |||
21. | The Gerbil | 13m | 1 | HVS | 5a | ||
22. | Borg | 15m | 1 | VD | |||
23. | Star Trek | 15m | 1 | HVS | 5a | ||
24. | Aquarian | 15m | 1 | VD | |||
25. | Capricorn | 17m | 1 | HS | 4b | ||
26. | Gemini | 17m | 1 | VD | |||
27. | Versary | 17m | 1 | S | 4a | ||
28. | Tatty Crack | 17m | 1 | VD | |||
29. | Aries | 19m | 1 | VS | 4c | ||
30. | Vanishing Crack | 18m | 1 | S | 4a | ||
31. | Kaygeeforsee | 19m | 1 | HS | 4b | ||
32. | Non-sense | 25m | 1 | VS | 4c | ||
33. | Rose Arête | 13m | 1 | D | |||
34. | Red Admiral | 28m | 2 | HS | 4a |
No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Adjectival Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
35. | Zimm | 14m | 1 | VS | 4b | ||
36. | Wiggy | 14m | 1 | VS | 4b | ||
37. | End Game | 28m | 1 | HS |
No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Adjectival Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
38. | Novitiate | 13m | 1 | VD | |||
39. | One | 14m | 1 | HVS | 5a | ||
40. | Two | 14m | 1 | VS | 4c | ||
41. | Three | 14m | 1 | S | |||
42. | Mayday | 17m | 1 | S | |||
43. | Nonsense Wall | 18m | 1 | VS | 4b | ||
44. | Nonsense Crack | 18m | 1 | VS | 4b | ||
45. | Weird Wall | 21m | 1 | S | |||
46. | Loose Arête | 21m | 1 | VD | |||
47. | Penitent's Corner | 30m | 1 | VD | |||
48. | Rosary | 28m | 1 | HS | 4b | ||
49. | Foot and Mouth | 26m | 1 | VS | 4c | ||
50. | Galtieri Groove | 30m | 1 | VD |
Weather ForecastThis section displays the weather forecast for Caerfai Bay, which is located to the east of St. Non's Bay. This gives a pretty good indication of what the weather will be like on the crag, as both Caerfai Bay and St. Non's sit at around sea level. This weather forecast is generated by the Met Office Weather Widget Tide TimesTide times can have a significant impact on where and when one climbs. It is therefore extremely important to check the timetables before embarking on trip to the area. UK tides information for all standard and secondary ports is provided by the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO), and displayed on the BBC's website. The link below provides a link to the nearest monitoring station to St. Non's Bay: |
The most reliable conditions are in the summer, but the low altitude of the crag may make it a viable option in winter. The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. Easier routes will only require a moderate rack, while harder routes will require a something more comprehensive; a good compliment of friends or other camming devices will certainly help. A singe 50 metre rope should serve well on most easy routes, however, twin or double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. In addition to your usual gear, you might want to bring along an abseil rope to speed up access to the base of the crag. |
Although there are a variety of ways to get to St. Non's Bay, which is located just the south of St. David’s, most will probably be coming from the west. If so, when approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, continue along the A40 towards Haverfordwest (SM 962 158). Here you will need to leave the A40, take a short detour through the town, and take the smaller A487 which will signpost St. David’s (SM 753 253). |
Enter the city and continue to the 'roundabout' with a Celtic cross at its centre (SM 753 253). Take the first exit left, which is signposted to 'Porth-Clais 1.5 miles'. Follow this for around 200m and take the first left, which is signposted 'St. Non's Cahapel ¼ mile. Follow this and park at the free car park at St. Non's Retreat (SM 751 244). Walk down the path past the chapel and the well to the coastal path and take your pick of crags. |
There’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. The city of St. David’s and its hinterland is particularly well provided for. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites: Youth Hostel Association in Wales Independent Hostel Guide Campsites in Pembrokeshire For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website. |
No red tape or access issues here! For climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) runs a Regional Access Database, which holds mountain/crag specific information on matters of conservation and access, including issues such as nesting restrictions, nature designations and preferred parking. If you are in any doubt about any particular access arrangement, or need to report an incident, you should contact your local BMC Access Representative or the BMC Access Officers for Wales: Elfyn Jones. |
| Navigation Maps Ordnance Survey 1:25k Explorer Series OL 35 North Pembrokeshire/Gogledd Sir Benfro Ordnance Survey 1:50k Landranger Series 157 St David’s & Haverfordwest/Tyddewi a Hwlffordd Road Maps |
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Government Bodies and Other Organisations Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority Association of National Park Authorities Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales Maritime and Coastguard Agency Outdoor Organisations and Companies British Mountaineering Council Pembrokeshire Outdoor Charter Group Weather and Tides Tourist Information Travel Information Welsh Public Transport Information Accommodation Youth Hostel Association in Wales Maps and Guidebooks The Climbers’ Club
Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop Wildlife and Conservation Joint Nature Conservation Committee Royal Society for the Protection of Birds |