Sunset Slab

Overview

Sunset Slab is the farthest from the trailhead of the six developed crags at Mount Helena, but because its six bolted routes range from 5.6 to 5.9, it is the most popular. 

All the routes face west, and they might be the only comfortable place to climb on most winter days. On the other hand, you can bake on a summer afternoon.

Since I was solo-leading here, I will say that for the most part, trees as ground anchors were plentiful. If memory serves correctly, the only route I had to use bolts as anchors for was Ansley's Way.

Getting There

Follow signs or Google Maps to Mount Helena City Park. From the parking lot, pick up the main trail leaving it, which is the 1906 Trail and leads you to the crags. The crags begin just after you pass the cave at Devil's Kitchen. Expect a moderately strenuous hike of 20-30 minutes. After passing the Devil's Kitchen cave, look for a trail heading up and left through scree shortly after the limestone wall on your left meets the trail.

Routes

Here are the routes from left to right:

• Ansley's Way-- 5.6, 2 Pitches.
• Summer Solstice-- 5.7. I thought this was actually the hardest of the routes. The vertical crack at the finish felt tougher than anything on the 5.9 did.
• Mr. Clean-- 5.7
• Giggles and Grenades-- 5.7
• Golden Light Gainer-- 5.9. I found this quite soft for 5.9 and felt Summer Solstice was harder. I think 5.8 would be a better grade for both.
• Last Chance-- 5.6

Because the single-pitch routes get close to 100', you need a 60m rope to lower or rappel from some of the routes. There is a walk-off descent down a gully to climber's right of Last Chance. Bolt spacing is "comfortable," so bring enough draws for a bolt every 8' or so on average.

 

 

Red Tape

Follow posted regulations.

Any new route development requires permission from the City of Helena. Don't be a rogue bolter and risk access for everyone else.

Camping

None. The park is day-use only. If you need to camp, you will have to drive out to nearby National Forest land.