Supercrack Tower, 5.8-5.11

Overview/Approach

The Window Route on Supercrack Tower is one of the better tower/spire routes in all of Sedona, Arizona. The wild nature of the second “window” pitch is hard to match. A full stem up the window leads to a dramatic roof turn out of it. The whole feature is really a large split in Supercrack Tower, more of an open chimney than a window.

Besides the Window Route, Supercrack Tower has a dozen more routes which is an unusual amount for a single tower near Sedona, although many are just single pitches. I assume the first FA is in fact what they call the North Face/Original Route (5.10-R) put in by Coats and Dawson during the ‘80’s. Besides the Window Route, Bloom has three other routes marked as three star routes in his new (2012) guide book: Turkish Bride (5.10+R), Hot Pink Hummer Tour (5.10+) and Window of Opportunity (5.10+).

The approach is a plus; unlike Oak Creek Spire where access can be an issue with the local residents or Dr. Rubo’s Wild Ride which is overlooking town, Supercrack Tower presents a remote feel located way back in Wilson Canyon, hidden from Sedona. A pleasant trail (Wilson Canyon Trail) meanders along a wash from Midgley Bridge to its terminus in the wash. From there, an additional 20-30 minute hike along the wash leads you to near the end of the canyon with two towers on your right: Supercrack (east) and Lily Flower Tower. A hideous, but short, bushwhack up the drainage between the two leads you to the southwest corner of Supercrack Tower. The entire approach takes approximately one hour.

Route Description(s)

The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Face each Wall

Northwest Face

Hot Pink Hummer Tour- 2 Pitches- 5.10+/

Not located on the main tower, but rather on a sub tower behind it, south facing crack.

Pre-Marital Sex- Single Pitch- 5.10/

Extra-Marital Sex- Single Pitch- 5.11b-cR/

Window Route- 3 Pitches- 5.10/

One of the best spire climbs near Sedona. The first pitch is all bolted with the crux being a short traverse at the top with a bit of exposure. The 2nd pitch is fantastic, turning the chimney out to the west from full on stem to jam then up a nice finger/hand crack. The last pitch is wide, the chockstone mentioned here and there is gone, thus a bit more true off width technique. Dow

Consumation Crack- Single Pitch- 5.10/

(located in the window)

Turkish Bride- 4 Pitches- 5.10+R/

North Face-Original Route- 3 Pitches- 5.10-R/

Southeast Face

Tofurkey- Single Pitch- 5.9/

Turkish Delight-Single Pitch- 5.11-/

Hot Dog Down a Hallway- Single Pitch- 5.8/

Window of Opportunity-Single Pitch- 5.10+/

(extension of Hotdog)

Marriage Reality- Single Pitch- 5.11/

(extension of Window of Opportunity)

Shotgun Wedding-Single Pitch- 5.11-/

External Links

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