Taylor's Falls

Overview

Taylor's Falls is one of the most coveted rock climbing destinations in MN, for those who want to practice some trad climbing close to the Minneapolis/St. Paul metro area.

The area offers an array of climbing routes from 5.2 to 5.13s and a variety of bouldering problems.

There is also some geological interest. The area is located in the Interstate State Park, which belongs to Minnesota and Wisconsin.
Geologically the park offers the visitor a view of the St. Croix river and the glacial potholes. These are perfectly smooth holes carved on the rock by the passing glaciers.

From the MN Department of Natural Resources website http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/interstate/index.html:

There is so much to do at Interstate State Park, located on the beautiful St. Croix River. Visitors can climb the cliffs of the St. Croix River Dalles, canoe the flat-water, watch kayakers rush through the rapids, or relax on a excursion boat. Spring brings a great diversity of wildflowers and in fall, the St. Croix River Valley forest is ablaze in the autumn colors of red, gold, and orange. The geology that formed this park intrigues visitors, and brings geologists from all over the world. At least 10 different lava flows are exposed in the park, along with two distinct glacial deposits, and traces of old streams valleys and faults. During the summer, hike the trails and explore the glacial potholes that make this park unique.

Getting There

From the Twin Cities, there are some different ways of getting there:

From St.Paul:
Head North on 35E exit East on Hwy 694, then take the East Exit of HWy 36 towards Stillwater. Once in Stillwater head north on Hwy 95 (main strip of Stillwater) for approximately 30 miles. Follow the signs to the park's paking lot.

From Minneapolis:
The directions are the same as if one is coming from St.Paul.
From Minneapolis head north on 35W and then take east on 694 , or follow 35w further north towards Forest Lake and follow the signs to Taylor's Falls.

Red Tape

Some routes are temporarily closed due to rock fall, and some can close during certain times of the year during the Bald Eagle mating and nesting seasons.

Camping

There is camping on both sides of the park, you need a park permit. You can camp in MN or in WI.

External Links

Vertical Endeavors (Climbing Gym)
Offers guided trips to Taylor's Falls.
http://verticalendeavors.com/

Midwest Mountaineering
Climbing Shop, with gear and beta on the areas.
http://www.midwestmtn.com/

Taylor's Falls Climbing
http://www.iit.edu/~andejoe1/Rockguide/home.htm

Minnesota Department of Natural Resources
Camping and permit information
http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/index.html

Routes/ Areas

These are some climbs found in the area:
For a more comprehensive list please visit:

http://www.iit.edu/~andejoe1/Rockguide/home.htm

Noah's Ark

1 Noah's Ark + 5.6
The first decent rock formation you find as you walk down the path is this intimidating route.

2 Bow of the Ark ++ 5.8
Use only the holds found on the front buttress of the formation.


Cornice Rock

The Other One + 5.4
What looks like an intriguing slab from the base melds into easier pathways with the large selection of holds on route.


The Cornice 5.6
Climb up the face towards the tree, then around, up, behind the tree.


Bill and Tom 5.7
Climb halfway up Sonny and Juanita then traverse onto the top half of The Cornice.

Sonny and Juanita ++ 5.6
The most popular route for gawkers to loiter by. A selection of jams, mantels, and overhangs. First ascended in 1909 by three voyagers.

Daphne and Chloe 5.8
Use only the face to the right of Sonny and Juanita

The Grack 5.4
Dihedral / gully the right of Cornice Rock. Potentially loose rock.


Armpit 5.8
Three cracks and some blocks to the left of the pillar provide moderate fun.


The Dihedral 5.3

The Corner Thing 5.6
Use the right corner of the pillar to make your way to the top.


Overhang Face + 5.8
Ascend the face of the protruding pillar while avoiding the edges. A very spicy lead.

Staircase 5.2
Climb the dark corner chimney to the edge of the overlook.


The Crack + 5.10
A classic Taylor’s Falls boulder problem.


Boob + 5.7
Climb the corner right of The Crack


Slab ++ 5.9
To the right of Boob lies a 15 foot slab. Avoid the cracks on both sides.

The Wheel 5.10+
a contrived boulder problem to the left of Schlocksides

Schlocksides + 5.9+
Jam up a blocky crack and pull a long move to the top

Slicksides ++ 5.9
The classic Taylor's Falls boulder problem on the smoothest rock on earth


Slicksides Direct 5.11
Start in the obtuse dihedral left of the normal start and finish on the Slicksides pocket higher up.

Digitalis 5.12-
Around the corner to the right of Slicksides is a hanging slab.

Images

View Taylor's Falls Image Gallery - 9 Images