Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.56390°N / 11.83630°E |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.6 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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IV+ |
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Number of Pitches:
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13 |
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Grade:
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III |
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Overview
Topo of the route.First climbed in 1910 by E. Gerhards and A. Reither.
Getting There
The pleasure of a late-fall day.The route begins in a prominent gully. Beware of stonefall in this gully, especially if parties are above on the route.
Route Description
In the P1 chimney- Pitch 1, IV, 25 m - climb a steep chimney, mostly on the right face to a 2 piton belay (pitons hidden in a notch above your head).
- Pitch 2, IV, 30 m - Escape the chimney to the right, belaying on a shoulder.
- Pitch 3, II, 35 m - Wander easy terrain up the ridge.
- Pitch 4, II, 25 m - Continue easily on the more well-defined ridge.
- Pitch 5, I, 45 m - Walk and scramble along the occasionally horizontal ridge to where terrain steepens (you might uprope and scramble pitches 3-5).
- Pitch 6, IV, 50 m - Climb enjoyable chimney and face. Many possibilities for route and protection.
- Pitch 7, IV, 40 m - Continue up the face to a ridge crest below the striking "3-cornered roof."
- Pitch 8, IV, 25 m - climb along the left side of the 3-cornered roof, clipping a fixed cam and a piton before a bend left and then up to a 3-piton belay. Fun pitch!
- Pitch 9, IV, 50 m - Climb a crack above the belay, then continue easy ground to belay before a prominent horizontal seam that splits the mountain.
- Pitch 10, III, 35 m - Traverse left back in to the base of a steep corner immediately right of the great chimney (last seen at the end of the first pitch!). A 2 piton belay station is here.
- Pitch 11, IV, 25 m - Climb up the corner and traverse left into the chimney. Climb it for a short distace to a level platform and belay. The traverse into the chimney feels a little sketchy. 2 pitons on the pitch.
- Pitch 12, IV+, 30 m - climb the vertical chimney, mostly on the right face. This crux pitch feels quite sustained. A fixed nut, piton and ancient wooden block decorate the vertical section. Beyond the difficulties, travel easy ground up and left to a striking cave belay.
- Pitch 13, III+, 50 m - Escape the cave on the left (icy), then climb along the edge of a loose scree gully to a belay from slung rocks. Unrope and walk easily to the summit.
Getting down
Climbing around the "3-cornered Roof"From the summit, follow a trail west to the Crespeina-Joch at 2528 meters. Go down then back up to the Cir-Joch (2466 meters). Then down to the Clarkhütte, and easily back to your car or the Grödnerjoch.