Three Fingered Jack- January 31, 2015

MIXED CLIMBING EXCITEMENT! Yes, the combination of rock, ice, and the slush we’re calling “snow” this winter, made for some spicy and fun adventuring. The first part of 3FJ was a leisurely hike in patchy snow that was pleasantly interrupted at times by views of the summit, the silhouette of Mt Washington, the Three Sisters, and The Great Mt Jefferson. 

Although the total precipitation for the northwest is close to
normal, the snowpack is dismal. While the December snowfall was
disappointing, the loss of snow throughout January has been downright
depressing. Mt Hood is at 22% of normal snowpack, and Bachelor is not
much better at 37%. Originally, we had planned to climb Mt Bailey this
month but after scoping out Three Fingered Jack from Hayrick Butte last
weekend and realizing that the upper rock spire was mostly free of snow,
we seized the opportunity. During a normal winter, the upper spire of
3FJ would be covered in rime ice and snow, making for a very different
style climb. 

We climbed the summit route which involves a 4 mile approach along the PCT. The route then gains the ridge
by way of a 30-40* snow slope that probably reaches 60* for short
sections near the top, making crampons and ice axes necessary. The last
section to the summit involves exposed 4th and easy 5th class climbing
that the majority of parties will want to protect. As mentioned above,
the rock is super chossy so helmets are a must. Although the climbing is
easy, be prepared to employ creative protection by slinging blocks and
knobs.

See This Post for complete info, stats, equipment list, and additional photos.