Tizi Ougane Normal

Approach

See "Jebel Toubkal" > "Normal Route / Ikhibi Sud" > "Approach" to get to the base of the climb, refuge Neltner.

Route Description

Walk along the valley reaching a flat not far from the hut. Continue in the bed though narrows, surround on the left side some large rock islands on the foot of Bou Ouzzal. Then climb a slope (20º) towards Tizi (col) Ougane (3,750 m). Turn right and climb (30 m distance from the crest) to a nick behind a trident gendarme. Follow the ridge directly towards another projection. Move right and traverse into a short gully wich is climbed with a side rib back to ridge. Follow the ridge and soon move to right to finish on a scree head. Straightahead lead on to the large roof on left side of the ridge. Plod up to join crest at the apparent summit wich is a forepeak. Descend W and reascend across a small gap to reach the top of Ras.

To continue to Timesguida, descend into gap and traverse horizontally below forepeak to a little col (3,968 m). Ascend the other side keeping someone right to a broad ridge hump and move left along it to cairn. 15-20' from Ras.

If you want to ascend first Timesguida, walk along a bast scree or snow roof from Ras' E ridge near its scree head at base of roof, to the col (3,968 m), then as said.

Essential Gear

Ice axe and possibly crampons.

Images

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