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8447 Hits
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79.78% Score
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11 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.91827°N / 9.39707°E |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.8 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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from AD to TD |
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Number of Pitches:
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12 |
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this is both a Mountain and a Route page
as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.Overview
The Torrione Fiorelli (1673m) is a big pinnacle growing up, well detached, from the lower part of the East ridge of Grigna Meridionale.Normally low frequented because it is out of the typical concatenations of routes used for training in this range.
Its SE side grows up for 110+ meters from the very steep meadows (if you want to get here you may need to climb roped) but only a difficult route (SE edge - opened by Paolo Armando) has a good quality rock and is sometimes climbed.
The W, S and E walls are well cut, in their middle part, by a good ledge (somewhere grassy) that can be reached along tracks.
The quality of the rock is not fantastic, due to low frequentation, but 2 short routes here are worth of being climbed, especially in bad weather days or to test the beginners.
Just near to this pinnacle, on its west side, a big wall, 120m high: the Torrione della Grotta (1714m) gives further chances to spend some hours making strong tests.
Getting There
From Rifugio SEM or Rifugio Porta follow the path to Canalone Porta, once there cross it following the marks for Cresta Sinigaglia. | After about 10-15 minutes walking, you'll get near the base of a big yellow overhanging wall (the Torrione della Grotta), herefrom, following some tracks toward right, you get the small saddle between this wall and the Torrione Fiorelli. Here is the starting point of the two most interesting routes. Try to avoid to loose the track ! |
Routes Description
All the described routes can (should) be climbed in one day, the fastest way to get down is a rappel (2 ropes of 40m) along the S channel (beware of unstable stones) to get the big ledge that, toward right (W) brings you back to the starting points.The normal route can be descended unroped by the ones that got the summit along the 3 difficult routes.
Normal route NNE - 2 pitches - 60m - II-III UIAA
from the small saddle start climbing (keeping and crossing in the right side) the small pillar detached from the Torrione without reaching its summit.
Once at the saddle between the pillar and the tower, keeping the left side, climb straight along a chimney-dihedral-wall up to a kind of letter box.
Now, to the left (a little exposed) a short wall leads to the summit.
 | Bramani route NW - 3 pitches - 70m - IV-V UIAA from the small saddle go down to the right to get the chimney between the small pillar and the tower : starting point. Right up to the saddle - 30m (4°) Straight up for 5-6 m then cross to the right to get a small shelf, then another one. Up along a slab (4°) to get the easy ending part of the route. Boga route W wall - 3 pitches - 70m - V+ UIAA from the starting point of the previous route cross to the right along the ledge to get a crack ending under an overhang. Along it to the overhang, to be passed over on the left (pegs not always on site - 1 aided pass) Follow along another crack starting overhanging to get a grass shelf. Straight on to a ledge and to the last crack leading to the ending easier part (4° then 3°) |
 | Paolo Armando route SE edge - 4 pitches - 100m - V+ UIAA From the base of the edge (got descending, from the starting point of the normal route, along the E side of the tower) cross to the left to get a slab. Straight on along it to get an overhang, cross to the left, pass the roof (1 aided pass) and straight to the big ledge crossing the whole tower. Up few meters then to the left to get a crack and the belay point. Along a difficult slab (aided A1) then along a short vertical wall; at the end cross to the left to get the easier ending part. |
Essential Gear
If you want to climb only the normal route a 40m rope is more than enoughIf you want to climb all the described routes you need at least 6 carabiniers and could be useful a webbing or stepladder.
Diificulty table
| UIAA | French | USA |
| 1° | F | 2 |
| 2° | PD | 3 - 4 |
| 3°inf - 3° - 3° sup | AD | 5 - 5.2 |
| 4° inf - 4° - 4° sup | D | 5.3 - 5.5 |
| 5° inf - 5° - 5° sup | TD | 5.6 - 5.8 |
| 6° inf - 6° - 6° sup | ED | 5.9 - 5.11 |
| 7° | EX | 5.11a - 5.11b |