Dow Williams - Jan 7, 2025 10:26 am Date Climbed: Dec 30, 2025
Unnamed Dihedral, 5.10-, 4 Pitches
With Brandon from Tucson. This is a route worth doing and the dike route you can add on at the end really makes it worthwhile. It sounds like the approach from Warpaint is worth exploring, tunnel and all. I have yet to do it and just did the approach as I would for Dreamscape. Take a #5 for the crux off the ground on pitch one. Pitch one has another fun exposed crux near its end where your traverse left under a roof to gain a short OW section which you essentially belay in. The 2nd pitch gives you an option of tunnelling through or climbing up and left at the grade to deal with the obvious roof above. If you tunnel through, the pitch is more of a 5.9 lead. The top is easily done as one pitch to the summit. The final wide chimney offers some 5.8 climbing. The #5 comes in handy again on that lead. Raps off the north with a single 70m, the dike route starts right there on Dreamscape. You will have to downclimb a short bit of slab if rapping the dike with a single 70m.
Dow Williams - Jan 7, 2025 10:26 am Date Climbed: Dec 30, 2025
Unnamed Dihedral, 5.10-, 4 PitchesWith Brandon from Tucson. This is a route worth doing and the dike route you can add on at the end really makes it worthwhile. It sounds like the approach from Warpaint is worth exploring, tunnel and all. I have yet to do it and just did the approach as I would for Dreamscape. Take a #5 for the crux off the ground on pitch one. Pitch one has another fun exposed crux near its end where your traverse left under a roof to gain a short OW section which you essentially belay in. The 2nd pitch gives you an option of tunnelling through or climbing up and left at the grade to deal with the obvious roof above. If you tunnel through, the pitch is more of a 5.9 lead. The top is easily done as one pitch to the summit. The final wide chimney offers some 5.8 climbing. The #5 comes in handy again on that lead. Raps off the north with a single 70m, the dike route starts right there on Dreamscape. You will have to downclimb a short bit of slab if rapping the dike with a single 70m.