Unnamed Dihedral, 5.10-, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Garlic Dome is one of the last features I had yet to climb in the Stronghold.  It is overshadowed, literally, by Dreamscape Buttress on Westworld Dome.  Westworld is home to one of the more popular routes on the west side of Cochise:  Warpaint, 5.10c.  Warpaint is located on the southwestern corner of Westworld.  Dreamscape Buttress, 5.9, is located at the southeastern corner.  There is a cool scramble, featuring a tunnel, to reach Dreamscape from Warpaint.  However, to reach the southeast face of Galic Dome, it is quicker to use a different canyon approach just one drainage east of the typical approach for Warpaint.  Although Dreamscape Buttress is considered to be a classic climb at its grade in Cochise, the longer approach does keep visitation to this area at a minimum.  In front (south) of Dreamscape Buttress is Garlic Dome. As you hike up the drainage directly towards Dreamscape’s obvious buttress, you will notice the garlic shaped tower attached to the south facing wall of Garlic Dome.  It is unmistakably the shape of a garlic clove (see photo).  This unnamed dihedral is the obvious and prominent corner climb that ascends the southeast face on Garlic Dome.  It would be foolish to not climb the unnamed 5.7 single pitch dike on Westworld Dome once you rap Garlic Dome to the north.  It is a 130’ well protected dike climb.  Neither of these unnamed routes are listed in the local guide as of 2024, but both are listed on Mountain Project.

This dihedral climb involves two decent corner pitches with zero fixed gear enroute except a bolt out right on pitch one that was placed for potential development of a different route out right.  Both pitches protect well.   Pitch one offers the crux of the climb, off the ground,featuring an airy traverse left over a jug to enter the corner.  A #5 is essential to protecting this exposed crux move.    As with most domes in the Stronghold, the summit finish is below grade and wanders to the true summit where a fixed rap can be located on the northern edge.  This rap takes you down into a well shaded gully between Dreamscape Buttress and Garlic Dome.  Not be missed is an unnamed 5.7 130’ tall “ladder” dike on the buttress.  When you rap Garlic Dome with a single 70m, it lands you right at the base of this cool dike.  This climb features a slung rap (2024) at its top and a single 70m will rap it with a bit of slab downclimbing. 

Park at the dead end at the northwest camping area for the Cochise Stronghold on the westside.  Same as you would for Whale Dome, etc.  Hike up the wash heading northeast, a much narrower drainage than the main one heading north for Whale Dome.  Bushwhack north east looking for a bush choked drainage that aims for the obvious Dreamscape Buttress in the distance.  The faint climbers trail follows the east side of the drainage (when you can find it).  The west side of the drainage is navigable as well, but with more cactus and ankle biters.  In any regard, as you near Dreamscape’s southern face, you will notice in the foreground a much shorter dome.  On this dome’s south face, you will see the obvious “garlic” like tower attached to it.  Meander northwest up the hill to the base of the obvious dihedral that splits its southeast face.  The route starts at  a well shaded flat rope up spot directly below the dihedral.  The crux of the route for many will be the somewhat exposed first move traversing right to left into the dihedral. 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 105’-5.10-/ An outstanding pitch offering a bit of everything.  Place a #5 up in the roof slot at the start and stem up right and then back left for an exposed move (airy) over the cam to gain the dihedral.  Climb the fun dihedral below grade and exit it at some point to venture up and right to mantle a suspect gritty block.  Ignore the bolt out right.  Small to micro gear is helpful through this section.  Hit the roof and make a bomber #.75 off-set placement above to protect the awkward traverse (crux) on a major hold (airy yet again) back left into the dihedral at the base of a squeeze chimney.  Stem up the chimney with great rock on the left side.  Belay in a solid #.75 crack at a semi hanging gear belay in the wide. 

2^nd Pitch- 145’-5.10-/ Continue up the corner and through a tree (2024) to the base of a major roof.  Either burrow through or climb up and left on the outside (the crux of the pitch) corner.  Climb this corner on good features to a comfortable gear belay. 

3^rd-4^th Pitches – 125’-5^th/ Mountain Project breaks this down as two pitches, but it makes sense to do it as one.  Scramble to the sub summit and walk over to the east face of the summit block, place a #4 and climb the right side of the wide crack to a fixed rap on the north edge. 

Bonus

The rap puts you at the base of an awesome 130’ 5.7 vertical dike. It has a slung rap set at the top in which you need to downclimb some slab if you use a single 70m.  Can be top roped with an 80m.  Take a single to #4 and of course plenty of slings to sling the horns.  It is a blast, cannot wait to show my grandkids this one. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Make a single 70m rope rap down to the gully on the north and descend and bushwhack the gully back to the base of the route. 

Essential Gear

Single to #5 and double to #3.  Could easily get by with a single #2.  Small set of off-set cams and/or a set of wires always helpful in the Stronghold.  Take plenty of extension (slings).  This is an east face that stays lit well past noon in December.