Vallibierna-Diagonal NW

Overview

The normal route is long and not always evident, and it's rare to find someone in this peaks (all the people go in direction to Aneto and you don't must to follow the route of Col de Coronas for Aneto). The access to diagonal NW is dificult to find, the point is visible when you see back, not in front of you, it's necessary many attention. The path in the disgonal NW is narrow and the fall is impressive and for this reason with rain is dangerous. As well the hikers don't must to climb this peak for this reason (easy rock climb of grade F, easy for the mountaineers but is exposed for the begginers).

Time to summit: 4h
Slope: 1300m

Note about GPS file: it includes Tempestades and Margalida

Getting There

See the main page to approach to Puente de Coronas, trailhead of the route with many attention to the section Red Tape about the conditions of access.

Route Description

In the Puente de coronas (1950m) we'll leave the Hut in right side walking the track with a barrier of wood. Very soon we'll reach the bifurcation with signal (left: Coronas, right:Llosás). We'll get the right (Llosás). After a long track with curves and zig-zag we'll reach a path near of the river. In the bridge we'll find a new signal with the text "Vallibierna" (it's the route to peak Vallibierna not for our peak). We'll leave the path of Vallibierna in this point turning to left side in a big plateau with some of water and little lakes. In the other side of the green plain we'll find some cairns of stones to ascend a hill to reach the wonderful Lake of Llosás. In left side we'll can see the Ridge of Llosás and the col of Llosás but we'll turn to right bordering the lake to entry in a gorge. The exit of the gorge bring to a little lake where we'll find new cairns to left side. In this area it's possible to walk in several paths with cairns but the first are the shortest route. After a confuse area with great ground of stone among the rocks we'll arrive to the morrena of the old glacier (the glacier don't exist nowadays and don't had snow in summer). The peak Tempestades is visible in left side but our target is the peak Russell in right side. In the great wall is visible below the little Aguja SW of Russell and we'll walk to North direction among the stones near of the wall. We'll surpase the summit and more meters to North (about 500 meters of distance) to search the little path to access to diagonal NW (many attention to the cairns of stones). The entry is not evident and probably you'll see the point of access when you'll see back.

The diagonal NW is a narrow path with some short sections of rock climb (F, grade I). It's a exposed pass and with snow you must take many attention to evitate the fall to right side. In the upper part of the channell you'll reach a very wide area. In right direction the cairns go to a shoulder between two aiguilles, it's the point to descent to get the path in the corridor of access to the main summit. Impressive place and landscape.

In left side of the exit of the diagonal is possible the climb of Punta de la Brecha Russell (3192m), nice peak with a walk over blocks of stone and a very easy climb (F) in 25 minutes.

Essential Gear

-Nothing is summer (except the money to pay the bus and some of water, food,...)

-Early in the season (spring: may, june) it's necessary the use of crampons and ice-axe (if the NW face had some of snow in the diagonal the use is very advisable).

External Links

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Images

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