Via dei Morbegnesi

Overview

Via dei Morbegnesi - Punta della Sfinge

Punta della Sfinge m. 2802 is a fine granite mountain rising between Pizzo Ligoncio and Pizzi dell’Oro and belonging to the Nodo del Ligoncio, a subgroup located in the region of Masino-Bregaglia Alps. The name Sfinge (Sphinx) is due to a rocky building rising on its NNE ridge, very similar to the outline of the Sphinx. Via dei Morbegnesi is a very interesting classic route, running on the beautiful SE face of the peak, involving a steady trad climbing on excellent rock inside a wild environment.

Getting There

The starting point of the approach path is the village of Bagni del Masino m. 1172.

Road approach

- From Milano – Follow the road SS36 to Lecco. Here follow the road running on the right orographical shore of Lago di Como to Colico. Once getting in Colico take the Valtellina road to Morbegno and Ardenno. In Ardenno leave the main Valtellina road and turn to left, taking the Val Masino road as far as its end in Bagni del Masino (148 km. from Milano). Paying parking.

Approach to Rifugio Omio m. 2100

- From Bagni del Masino m. 1172 pass the hotel, cross a stream on a little bridge and take the path to Rifugio Omio. Getting a fork on the path, turn to right (signpost) and follow the good path (red and white marks), passing two alpine shelters and getting the grassy plateau of Rif. Omio. About 2 hours and 15 minutes from Bagni del Masino

Route Description

Via dei Morbegnesi (Punta della Sfinge)

Summit altitude: m. 2802
Difficulty: TD, UIAA VII, or V+ and A1
Equipment: pegs and rare bolts
Climbing length: 250 m
Exposure: SE
First ascent: P. Botta – F. Bottani – G. Dell’Oca – A. Passerini and L. Romegialli 1964, august 20th
Starting point: Rifugio Omio m. 2100

Via dei Morbegnesi report - UIAA scale

A direct beautiful route rising on a logical line of dihedrals and climbing in its upper part the yellow upper overhangs. The environment is alpine and severe. The route starting point is situated on the right hand side of the SE wall.

Approach from the hut

From Rifugio Omio take the path to Passo Ligoncio, getting a fork. Carry on heading SW on the path “Dario Di Paolo” (red-white marks), skirting Punta della Sfinge and reaching a scree gully. Climb the gully reaching some reddish slabs, then follow a moraine on the right, rising at the base of SE face. 1 and a half hour from the hut. The route starting point is situated below a corner-crack.

P1 – Climb a rocky step, then the corner-crack to a tiny pulpit. Still up the crack, then heading right get the start of the great corner marking the climbing line. Belay on two pegs. V, 45 m
P2 – Climb the corner to a belay in the middle of the corner. Belay on two pegs. IV+, 25 m
P3 – Up the corner, pass a little overhang, and belay on a grassy ledge on three pegs on the right. V, 25 m
P4 – Up a grassy groove to another ledge. Belay on two pegs. IV, 25 m.

P5 – Climb directly over the stance to a peg, then slanting left reach a slab and climb a sloping dihedral. Climb a slab on a flake and belay on a ledge with 2 pegs. IV, 30 m
P6 – Don’t climb the inviting corner over the belay, but do a rising traverse towards left, climbing a slab cut by a tiny crack and getting the bottom of a corner. Climb the corner, then traverse left, reaching a small edge and a good stance with 2 pegs under a corner closed by a roof. IV, V+, 35 m
P7 – Dont’ climb directly over the stance, but traverse left on a grassy cornice, climb a step reaching a slab below a overhang with a jammed stone. Climb the slab and then the overhang, exiting to a ledge. Belay on 2 pegs. IV, V. VI, then III, 15 m.

P8 – The crux pitch. Up the grassy corner over the ledge, then slanting right reach a beautiful slab equipped with various pegs. Climb some flakes to the starting point of the equipped section. Climb the slab, reaching a little niche below a chimney. Up the overhang, then climb the strenuous chimney, leading on the East summit ridge. Belay on two spits. VII, or V+ and A1, 50 m. Briefly to the summit.

Descent: rappelling on a line along the Bramani route, running on the left of Morbegnesi.

Essential Gear

Rope 2 x 55, helmet, 10 quickdraws, excentric and friends, slings; an aider is useful

Hut

Rifugio Antonio Omio 2108 m

Situation: Valmasino
Owner: C.A.I. SEM (Società Escursionisti Milanesi)
Size: 46 places
Phone +390342640020
Winter shelter: yes (Rif. Saglio)
Guardian: Graziano Gilardi
Phone +390342640020 Mobile: +393313253274 email info@rifugioomio.com Starting: Bagni di Masino

Red Tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking.

When to climb

Best season goes from the end of June to the end of September

Meteo

Meteo Lombardia
Meteo Switzerland

Guidebooks and maps

"Masino Bregaglia – Regno del Granito” Vol. I by Andrea Gaddi, Edizioni Polaris, Sondrio

“Solo Granito – Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia – Arrampicate classiche e moderne” by M. Sertori and G. Lisignoli, Edizioni Versante Sud, Milano

“Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia” Vol. I by Alberto Bonacossa and Giovanni Rossi, Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI

Maps

- CNS - Swiss National Map sheet 1296 - Sciora, scala 1:25.000 - Kompass, foglio 92, Chiavenna - Val Bregaglia, scala 1:50.000 - Meridiani Montagne, Pizzo Badile, scala 1:40.000