Page Type: | Route |
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Lat/Lon: | 49.11850°N / 20.12900°E |
Route Type: | rock climbing |
Time Required: | A long day |
Difficulty: | UIAA IV |
From the pass still follow the ridge on a top of Zapadna Vidlova Veza (more difficult parts of the ridge you can climb round on the right (east) side) (UIAA II).
From the top a few meters by a horizontal, but narrow ridge in the north-east direction to a place, where it tears off. Climb down through a few huge rocky steps, separated by ledges More difficult parts climb round on the left (west) side, but the last crag before Vidlove Sedlo climb round on the right side through a little saddle in a lateral rib (UIAA II).
Next the ridge forms four big crags. From the pass take a shallow, filled by scree chute on the left side of the ridge and next turn right and traverse the first crag on its north-west side on a saddle in the main ridge. Next climb up directly by an edge of ridge on the second crag and from it by an easy ridge through the not outstanding third crag on a saddle between it and fourth crag. Next follow still the ridge on the fourth crag and down on a saddle. The last part before Vel’ka Vidlova Veza take from the left (UIAA IV).
From the top climb down by the ridge through a few not high steps on a ledge before a place a steep fault. Here, on a rocky block, on its right side, there is a rappel stance. Rap down about 35m on the right (south-east) side on a grassy ledge, which widen in the left direction. Traverse in prolongation of this ledge to a chute falling down from Lievikova Strbina. Turn left turn climb up on the pass, which is not far from here (UIAA II).
On the pass turn right again on the ridge and climb up through a few little walls (more difficult parts go round on the left side) and finally by an edge of the ridge on a top of Vychodna Vidlova Veza (UIAA IV).
From the top climb down by the ridge on a ledge before a place a steep fault. From this place rap down 8m and turn right to a shallow “open book” and next by an edge again on the ridge. Now, climb down by an edge of ridge, very steep and narrow, on Kezmarska Strbina (UIAA II).
From the pass or follow a farther part of the ridge on a top of Kezmarsky Stit (some places UIAA III) or easier: take a wide, scree-rocky chute, which goes parallel to the ridge on the left side and follow it to the end near by the ridge. From this place come back on the ridge, which becomes steep and narrow, through huge blocks of rock, on the top of Kezmarsky Stit (UIAA I).