Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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43.03025°N / 42.99397°E |
Route Type:
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Ice Climbing |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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4A |
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Overview
Nice, logical and relatively safe route in the west face of Tetnuldi. We didn't notice any reference to this route in any guide but probably somebody had already climbed the same way before us. In all cases it’s worth to be documented. Climbed on 30.6.2013 by Petr Novosad x Tomas Horsky (Czech Republic). Suggested grade is 4A.Getting There
The start and both camps are the same as for the normal route - you can start either in village Adishi and go directly up the hill or you can get by car to altitude about 2800m using a new road on the west side of the mountain and then traverse to east. First camp is usually on the meadow below the first moraine (about 2900), second camp is in a saddle near the lower glacier (about 3800).Route Description
From the second camp still continue in the same way as normal route does until you reach the point where starts the slope of the west face. Then continue in direction to the summit between seracs (on your left) and rocks (on your right). Continue still very close to these rocks. The route ends on the south-east ridge about 150 elevation meters below the summit, you will need to cross a cornice there (it is also possible to go left and reach the ridge higher).Difficulty of the route significantly depends on snow/ice conditions. The maximum angle is about 70 degrees, we have used a rope only for last five pitches.