Overview
Mount Stickney. Wild Sky Rocket Couloir in center of photo |
Michael looking towards Mount Zekes |
A beautiful snowy gash in the South side of the mountain in winter and spring, this couloir is just begging to be climbed when in conditions. When access to the standard route up Olney creek is blocked this could be an alternative. It follows up from Wallace Falls trail and then a spur road from the Wallace Lake road. A 3,000' ascent in 0.9 miles shortens the approach and provides a unique view. It steepens up to almost 60° near the top necessitating a good snow-pack. This links up with the standard Olney Creek route on the North side of Stickney just before the final scramble. This route is for those seasoned in off-trail travel and ice-axe experience. I'm not sure what the history of ascents for this gulley is, but it is benchmarked at its base (1961') and at its top (4,992') on USGS 92' indicating that it must have been visited and probably has seen undocumented ascents from locals. My first attempt at this couloir had me topping out on Little Stickney (5,120+') when I took a bad variation up steep gulley with my brother barely surviving an icy traverse to meet me. Coming back with him a second time we stayed in the main gulley and on our descent were treated to the best glissade within 50 miles of Seattle.
Getting There
From the Seattle area, head East on US highway 2 to the town of Goldbar and look for signs indicating Wallace Falls State Park which will require a left turn onto 1st Street and right onto May Creek Road which changes names to Ley Road where May junctions off to the right. Continue on Ley until Wallace Falls Road which will be on the left and lead to the parking area.
Google Maps Directions
Route Description
Evening to the South |
Looking Down the Couloir at Zeke's
|
Red Tape
You will need an annual Discover Pass ($30) or daily pass ($10) to park at the Wallace Falls State Park Trail Head. There are exceptions and exemptions for this listed on the Discover Pass main page (mostly involving sno-park passes for snow-related recreation during winter season or disabled/veterans registered with state parks). The park has limited hours of operation from 8:00am to dusk. In winter you may need to park outside of the State park to allow time to make the trip (and avoid the fee/pass altogether).
Essential Gear
Helmet, Ice-ax, Crampons. Some parties bring a hand-line for the summit exposure. The snow must be deep and solid for this route to "go" all the way otherwise you face mixed conditions. This will not work as a snow-climb on a dry year and will be down right dangerous in high avalanche conditions/ deep powder. Consolidation is key
Climbing on the Upper Section of the Gully |
Climbing up the Hour Glass |
External Links
Contact information:
14503 Wallace Falls Road
Gold Bar, WA 98251
Phone: 360-793-0420
Wallace Falls State Park site
Discover Pass information
NOAA point forecast
Northwest Avalanche Center