Wolf's Tooth, 5.9, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

There is an obvious detached pillar in the middle of the south face of Twin Owls.  It has two stellar off-width climbs, one on each side.  Wolf’s Tooth, on the left and Tiger’s Tooth, 5.10-, on the right.  Tiger’s Tooth is a considerable step up in difficulty than Wolf’s Tooth but is also that much more aesthetic of a corner.   Both routes are listed as two pitches on MP.com but both are easily led as one pitch to near the summit with a 70m rope. 

From the parking trailhead, head west and look for the sign (2022) that directs you up the hill to the Owls.  Ignore the trail that splits off left for the lower Twin Owls, rather take the next left for the upper Twin Owls. Stay on the developed trail until almost even with the base of the main Twin Owl headwall to the west.  Locate a climber’s trail that splits off left up to beneath the broad south face.  The detached pillar is up ahead on a ridge due west, quite obvious.  Tiger’s Tooth climbs the east side and Wolf’s Tooth climbs the west side.  It would be foolish not to do them back to back.  You pass under the classic off-width, Crack of Fear, 5.10d, on the way to the pillar.

Route Descripton

1^st-2^nd Pitches- 220’-5.9/ Wolf's Tooth is a much easier variation than Tiger's Tooth (located on the opposite side of the pillar).  But it does offer sustained 5.8 climbing up the wide corner to a ledge and fixed nut belay (2022).  It is easy to make this a one pitch route for the competant leader by continuing up the left of two variations through blocky terrain, pulling through one roof below grade up to the southern shoulder below the summit where you can sling a block for the belay. 

Descent

Scramble down the Bowels of the Owl route (5.0) on the north side of the formation.  Hike around the east back to the base of the route to climb Tiger's Tooth or continue down the established trail on return the way you approached.

Essential Gear

70m rope.  Single to #4.  Route gets solid afternoon sun.