The famous 4.000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Courmayeur-Veny Valley)
Aosta Valley/France, Italy, Europe

The famous 4.000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Courmayeur-Veny Valley)

Aosta Valley/France, Italy, Europe
Antonio Giani
Antonio Giani
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Overview

The Aosta Valley (Italy) is one of the most famous and beautiful mountainous countries in the world. It holds many impressive mountains like Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) and Gran Paradiso. But there are also many 4.000 meters peaks which are well known all over the world: For example the Dente del Gigante, Grandes Jorasses, Breithorn, Roc, Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey and Lyskamm.
 
La Valle d'Aosta è una delle regioni italiane più conosciute nel mondo per suoi grandi Massicci Alpini, Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) e Gran Paradiso. Ma ci sono anche altre moltissime vette famose di oltre 4.000 metri tra le quali si ricordano il Dente del Gigante, Les Grandes Jorasses, il Breithorn, il Castore, il Polluce, l'Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, il Roc, la Dent d'Hérens e i Lyskamm.

Courmayeur Veny Valley (Monte Bianco)

AIGUILLE DE BIONNASSAY 4.052m
First ascent: E. N. Buxton, F. C. Grove, R. J. S. MacDonald, P. J. Cachat and M. Payot, (Jul 28th, 1865).
Difficulty: D.
Difference in height: About 1.680m from le Nid d'Aigle.
Refuge: Refuge de Tête-Rousse (3.167m). Places when open: 74. Winter hut: 16 places.
Ascent time: 6,00-7,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
 
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PUNTA BARETTI 4.013m
First ascent: Gian Carlo Grassi, Sergio Rossi and Angelo Siri, (Oct 30th, 1988)
Difficulty: TD+.
Difference in height: About 2.350m from La Visaille Village.
Refuge: Rifugio Franco Monzino (2.580m). Places when open: 60. Winter hut: 8 places. Bivacchi fissi Marco Crippa (3.850m), 9 places, and Giuseppe Lampugnani (3.860m), 6 places.
Ascent time: 7,30-8,30 hours.
Descent: From SW Slope (AD).
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
 
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MONT BROUILLARD 4.068m
First ascent: Martino Baretti and Jean Joseph Maquignaz, (Jul 28th, 1882).
Difficulty: AD+.
Difference in height: About 2.410m from La Visaille Village.
Refuge: Rifugio Franco Monzino (2.580m). Places when open: 60. Winter hut: 8 places. Bivacchi fissi Marco Crippa (3.850m), 9 places, and Giuseppe Lampugnani (3.860m), 6 places.
Ascent time: 8,30-9,00 hours.
Descent: From S ridge and SW slope (AD-).
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
 
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PICCO LUIGI AMEDEO 4.470m
First ascent: V. Bressoud, René Dittert, W. Marquart and Francis Marullaz, (Jul 28th, 1933).
Difficulty: D.
Difference in height: About 2.810m from La Visaille Village.
Refuge: Rifugio Franco Monzino (2.580m). Places when open: 60. Winter hut: 8 places. Bivacchi fissi Marco Crippa (3.850m), 9 places, and Giuseppe Lampugnani (3.860m), 6 places.
Ascent time: 10,00-13,00 hours.
Descent: From Monte Bianco.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
 
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MONTE BIANCO / MONT BLANC 4.811m
First ascent: R. W. Head, Julien Grange, Adolphe Orset and Jean Marie Perrod, (Aug 13th, 1863).
Difficulty: PD/PD+.
Difference in height: About 1.280m from Col du Midi.
Refuge: Refuge des Cosmiques (3.613m). Places when open: 120.
Ascent time: 8,00-10,00 hours from Col du Midi.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
 
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AIGUILLE BLANCHE DE PEUTEREY 4.112m
First ascent: Paul Güssfeldt, Emile Rey, Christian Klucker and César Ollier (Aug 15th, 1893).
Difficulty: AD+/D-.
Difference in height: About 2.755m.
Refuge: Bivacco fisso dalla Brenva (3.200m) 5 places.
Ascent time: 10,00-11,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
 
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GRAND PILLIER D'ANGLE 4.243m
First ascent: Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli, (Jun 22,23th, 1962).
Difficulty: ED.
Difference in height: About 870m from Ref. Torino.
Refuge: Rifugio Torino (3.375m). Places when open: 190 places. Bivacco Alberico Borgna (3.680m), 10 places.
Ascent time: 11,00-13,00 hours, from the base.
Descent: From Monte Bianco.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
 
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MONT MAUDIT 4.465m
First ascent: P. Cassan, P. Kornacker and H. Kunn, (Jul 31th, 1901).
Difficulty: PD+.
Difference in height: About 1.000m.
Refuge: Refuge des Cosmiques (3.613m). Places when open: 120.
Ascent time: 4,30-5,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.

Refuges Telephone Numbers

Books and Maps

BOOKS:
  • "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali", di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
  • "Guida dei Monti d'Italia-Monte Bianco" (Vol. I°) di Gino Buscaini-Club Alpino Italiano/Turing Club Italiano, 1994 (in Italian).
  • "I Rifugi della Valle d'Aosta" di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Febbraio 2003.
  • "A piedi in Valle d'Aosta" (Vol. 1), di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Giugno 2003.
  • "80 itinerari di Escursionismo Alpinismo e Sci Alpinismo in Valle d'Aosta", di Osvaldo Cardellina, Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1977 (in Italian); seconda Ed. Luglio 1981; terza Ed. Luglio 1984; (in French), prima Ed. Febbraio 1978; seconda Ed. Marzo 1980.
Mountaineering Books

MAPS:

  • Kompass "Massiccio del Monte Bianco Valle d'Aosta Sentieri e Rifugi" Carta turistica 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Massiccio del Monte Bianco" (n° 4), Torino, 1998 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Monte Bianco-Courmayeur-Chamonix-La Thuile" (n° 107), 1:25.000.
  • Kompass "Massiccio del Monte Bianco Valle d'Aosta" Carta escursioni, bike e sci alpinismo 1:50.000.
  • L'Escursionista "Monte Bianco Courmayeur" (n° 1) Edizioni Rimini 2004 1:25.000.
  • IGN Carte de randonnée CHAMONIX - MASSIF DU MONT BLANC 3630 OT 1:25.000.
  • Edizioni Tabacco "Mont Blanc" Udine, 1978 1:50.000.
  • Studio F.M.B. Bologna 1988 "Monte Bianco-Mont Blanc" 1:50.000.
  • IGN institut géographique national genoble mont-blanc parc national de la vanoise (n° 53), 1:100.000.
 

Important Information

Useful Numbers

  • Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto n° 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
  • Bollettino Meteo (weather info) Tel. 0165-44113.
  • Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.


Images

View The famous 4.000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Courmayeur-Veny Valley) Image Gallery - 9 Images

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