BLM Rock, West Corridor, 5.9-5.11b

Overview/Approach

 

This unique climbing wall offers a great reprieve from the crowds at the City of Rocks main. BLM Rock, Yellow Wall and other fine destinations located in front of and behind the Twin Sisters have a plethora of good routes. BLM Rock features mostly 5.10-11 sport climbs that are a bit short compared to other routes in the area, The Ranger’s a Psycho (5.10d), Scene of the Crime (5.11a), etc. They are pretty much lined up side by side and climb the same features and quality of rock. However, what really got my attention about this area originally is a potential trad seam on “elephant ear” type patina that has a “Thin Slice” flavor to it. Thin Slice (5.10a at Parking Lot Rock) being one of the best moderate routes in the City of Rocks. At the top of this seem is a small hole through a granite overhang about the size of a face, almost large enough to burrow through for the finish. I will be exploring this line further on my next trip. Despite BLM Wall being known for its sport routes, BLM Crack (5.9) is a stellar crack pitch located at the left end of the wall.



The approach is short compared to most destinations in the Twin Sisters area. Park at campsites #1-#4 on the north side of the road. Follow a light trail north as it turns right into the corridor (less than 10 minute hike, but wall out of view). BLM Crack starts in the short chimney/slot.

Route Description(s)

WEST FACE

Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall



  

• Boggs-Costello Memorial- 5.11b/



• BLM Crack- 5.9/
This is actually a great crack climb not yet recognized as such at the City because of where its location is and few folks getting on it. It is sandwiched between several 5.11 sport climbs. The start is hidden in a slot. Pure crack, finger and hand, plenty of features keeping it fun for the moderate crack climber. At the top, you can traverse along a huge ledge and poke your head through a hole in a roof. Dow




• Where Rangers Retire- 5.10c/



• Do Rangers Dream of Electric Sheep- 5.10d/



• The Ranger’s a Psycho- 5.10d/



• Scene of the Crime- 5.11a/
This is an excellent sport pitch and I don’t really do sport much. The horizontal that runs across this wall offers a nice reprieve from the lower crux. The crux on most of these routes is the first few bolts involving some neat stemming on this one. After the horizontal, things were mellow but still fun. Dow




• Good Enough for Government Work- 5.10d/



• Don’t be a Guberif- 5.10d/

External Links

• City of Rocks National Reserve
  
  
• Castle Rocks State Park
  
  
• Rock City, the place for beers
  
  




Images

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