Comp Rock, 5.7-5.11c

Overview/Approach

Comp Rock is the second largest monolith at Castle Rocks, 2^nd only to Castle Rock itself.  It has the best selection of challenging climbs in Castle Rocks State Park, both trad and sport.  Comp Wall was home to the infamous and poorly run Idaho climbing competition put on in the late 80’s therefore the name.  Comp Wall is given its own beta page as it is a destination in and of itself.  Comp Wall faces west and south and this beta page, Comp Rock, encompases the routes facing east and north.  There are some decent moderate sport climbs on the east and north faces that are listed on this beta page, none of which are of the challenging scope and nature of the Comp Wall routes. 

It is easy, for the competent team, to combine the east and north faces of Comp Rock for a full day of 5.10 mostly bolted climbing and if more routes are needed, you can finish the day on the nearby feature named Sweet 17.  Xtacy, 5.10b***, is the best route of this group and one of my favorite 5.10 sport climbs in either park.  Humdinger, 5.10b**, is a surprisingly fun route.  Handy, 5.7***, is a great entry level trad lead. 

Park above the rental lodge farm house to access the trail heading northeast for the east end of the park.  Do not take the signed (2020) left turn for Comp Wall.  Rather stay straight on the trail and take a left marked trail for the Taco and Three Spires area.  Ascend this trail up to between the Taco and the east face of Comp Rock.  Mantel Dynamics, 5.10a***, climbs the left side arete of the east wall.  As you circumvent the base of Comp Rock north, you run into good shade for Cryptic Vision, 5.10b**, which is actually marked with a named plaque (2020).  Humdinger, 5.10b**, is just a little further.  Then a decent trail takes you to Xtacy, 5.10b***, and Baby-Free, 5.10a***, the last routes on the north wall before you hit the west facing Comp Wall itself.  As beforementioned, on return it is easy to combine some Sweet 17 routes to finish the day.

EAST FACE, Routes Listed Left to Right

East Buttress, 5.9R/

Mantle Dynamics, 5.10a***/ These two lines, established by the same FAer, side by side have way too many bolts, over 40! between the two single pitches.  I have never seen anything like it before.  They are both fun climbs and I am surprised they were not discovered before 2003.  Mantle is definitely the more interesting of the two, climbing just right of the left arete for 100’ to a fixed rap.  The crux is half way up where you actually place your left foot over the arete and make a balance move.  Great position and fun route at the grade.  Dow

Continental Crust, 5.10a**/ Not as interesting as Mantle.  One crux move at the grade, traversing up and right after the split of the shared start with Mantle.  Rest of the route is below grade.  This 200’ route can be rapped with a single 70m by rapping to an anchor near a tree out climber’s right.  Or you can skip the 5^th class ground way above and traverse right to Handy’s anchors thereby shortening the route and rap with a single line over there.  Dow

The Fury, 5.9X/

Handy, 5.7***/ I climbed this route so long ago, I can’t find the notes.  I remember it as a good lead for the new trad leader.  Straight forward hand crack.  Easy to identify as there are not many cracks on this east face.  Dow

Already Been Done Crack, 5.10c**/ Same start as Handy.  Same thing, done long ago.  I do remember liking it though.  Splits off from Handy via a horizontal to a fun thin crack. Soft for the grade.  Dow

NORTH FACE

Cryptic Vision, 5.10b**/ Fully bolted 80’. A decent route.  Cryptic and Humdinger are listed with the Comp Wall east wall routes in the local guide when in reality they start the east side of the north facing walls.  Continue along the base of the east wall and scramble down a boulder to a sloped ledge.  Cryptic faces west in this north facing alcove.  There is a plaque naming the route at the first bolt (2020).  The first move off the deck is the crux at the grade as you mantel or heal hook your way up to a balanced position.  Then make an easy, but exposed, traverse right to a wide stem move to access the right wall.  Climb easier ground to a fixed rap.  Dow

Humdinger, 5.10b**/ Fully bolted line with optional 5.8 2^nd pitch.  In the same north facing alcove as Cryptic, scramble west to below a set of three jagged corners.  This is a solid route with several fun moves up a jagged corner to below an improbable roof,   Heel hook (or just make a physical mantle) over the roof and continue on easy ground to a fixed rap at 100’.  Either continue up 5^th class slab to a ledge below a 5.8 pitch or rap with a single rope.  Fully shaded.  Dow

Fragile Sawblades, 5.8/

Cujo, 5.11c*/

Wonderdog/Tunnel Vision, 5.7/

Eye, Eye, Eye, 5.10c*/

North Chimney, 5.9*/

Xtacy, 5.10b***/ Xtacy and Baby Free are located side by side at the west end of the north faces.  Continue along the base of the rock from Humdinger and ascend an established trail up to a small alcove with a short chimney.  Baby Free climbs the chimney to start.  Xtacy is the best 5.10- sport climb at Castle bar none.  80’ of sustained and thoughtful climbing to a fixed rap.  The crux is about 1/3 of the way up at a balancey side pull traverse move left.  The rest of the route is quite positive but steep and slightly overhanging at times.  Some fun mantles.  Dow

Baby Free, 5.10a***/ 80’ to fixed rap.  Not near as good as Xtacy, but fun and worth the recommendation.  Climb up the chimney, traverse out left to the bolts and make a wild free air mantel up on a horn/large hold. Continue up easier ground to the fixed rap.  Dow