Fründenhorn

The Fründenhorn from the north. Oeschinensee in the foreground.Photo taken July 1997 by Fred Spicker.

Overview

From the south.

The Fründenhorn is an attractive frequently climbed smaller peak located between the Doldenhorn and Blümlisalphorn above the Oeschinensee in the western part of the Bernese Alps. The three main ridges on the mountain are all excellent climbs. Those on the northeast and southwest are predominantly rock climbs while the northwest ridge starts on rock and continues on the distinctive snow crest to the summit. F. Corradi, E. Ober, F. Ogi and P. Rubi made the first ascent of the Fründenhorn via the Northwest Ridge Route on 8 July 1871.

Getting There

From Kandersteg.

Virtually all ascents are made from the Fründenhütte. The approach to the hut starts on the south shore of the Oeschinensee which is reached from Kandersteg either entirely by trail, or by trail from the top of the chairlift. The time to the hut is about four hours on foot from town, or about 3 hours from the top of the chairlift. TOPO MAP LINK: .

Routes Overview

The Fründenhorn from the north showing the routes and major features.1) NW Ridge Route 2) ENE Ridge 3) SW Ridge4) Fründenhutte 5) Oeschinenjoch 6) Fründenjoch

Note: All of the routes are approached across glaciers.  

View down NW Ridge

1) The Northwest Ridge is the normal route, rated PD. It is rock on the lower portion and moderate snow on the upper portion. Late in the season, or on low snow years, the snow portion of the ridge can be ice. Time: About 4 hours from the hut. 2) The East - Northeast Ridge is reached from the Oeschinenjoch. The climbing difficulties are mainly on rock. The route is rated AD with pitches of III+. Time: About 6 hours from the hut. J. Berger, A. Carter, and K. & O. Ogi made the first ascent on 12 July 1931. 3) The Southwest Ridge is reached from the Fründenjoch. The route from there is entirely on rock with difficulties up to IV+. The crux is a rather nasty overhang. Time: About 5 hours from the hut. This route is included in BERNER OBERLAND Die 100 schönsten Touren by Hans Grossen with Gaston Rébuffat. H. Lauper and M. Liniger made the first ascent on 18 July 1921.

Hut

See photo above for the hut location relative to the mountain. Fründenhütte Web Page