Friction Slab

Approach

From the camping areas located near the top of the mountain (this is also called the "Staging Area" where privies can also be found), follow the signs for the Main Face that lead uphill and to the right. The trail will follow along the base of the rock face and lead you to the "Approach Slab." There is a cable here to assist you in crossing this 4th class scramble. Take extra special caution if the rocks are wet or rope up. When you reach the top of this slab you are at the base of the climb.

Continue around (right) the main face just past a cable that anchors near the bottom. The start of the route is just before the numbered Army Route climbs. (The Army Routes have numbers spray painted at the base of the climbs.)

Route Description

Start the climb about 15 feet to the right of a very obvious dihedral. The rock is relatively smooth and difficult to place pro. You may not be able to place your first piece of pro until you have climbed up about 15-20 feet. The lower portion of the climb is fairly sporty. The upper pitch is fairly easy.

There is very little to hold onto and good footwork is a must. The route begins steeply but starts to level a bit as you work your way up. Once you clear the top of the first rock butress, traverse left slightly and use a belay point that is almost directly over the dihedral to your left. You may choose to use the cable as your belay anchor.

A variation of this route is to continue straight up (5.9) instead of trending left. Continue moving slightly left until you reach a very large ledge at the far left end of an overhang (you can miss it and you'll know it when you see it). You can either belay from this ledge or continue to the top and use a tree as an anchor.

Either rappel down using the aforementioned tree as an anchor (some of the bolts at the top look very questionable) or walk off down the trail to your left. The trail leads you back to the Staging Area.

Essential Gear

A light trad rack is sufficient. You will not need any very large pieces.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.