Isolation and Scree on Pagoda Mountain

Isolation and Scree on Pagoda Mountain

I'm not sure why the allure to Pagoda Mountain was always there. Maybe it was the fact that only a handful of people make it to the summit per year, or maybe it was the shape of the mountain; a jutting Pyramid of rock sticking out among the jagged Keyboard of the Winds like a giant tooth, beckoning to be climbed. On our yearly family hiking trips to Estes Park, my cousin and I typically choose one or two big mountains to tackle as a culmination of the trip. Pagoda had always been in the back of our minds, but this year, we were ready. After completing Long's and Meeker via Clark's Arrow (guided by the YMCA Hikemasters), we felt we were ready to tackle a big challenging peak by ourselves. As far back as when we were 14 even, we had always talked about trying for Pagoda, as well as other dumb foolish treks like Chief's Head and McHenry's and other climbs that we were in no way shape or form equipped to do. But almost 4 years later, we finally got to doing it. 

Sunrise on McHenry's and the Stoneman

We arrived at Glacier Gorge trailhead at about 3:30 in the morning, a good start time for a 13 hour hike. It was pretty chilly, so we started briskly walking up the trail. Glacier gorge is unique in that it is mostly day hikers running the trail, a far cry from the headlamp trails of the Goblin Forest at 3:30 in the morning. We pass only one other pair of climbers, headed to do some cool sounding technical rock wall somewhere in the Gorge, and just like that, we were alone. We hit Mills lake at about 4:30 in the morning, and that was magnificent, the moonlight reflecting on the perfectly still waters, it was a sight I won't forget. We pressed on and hit Black lake about an hour later, we were making good time. After Black Lake, the trail is a bit harder to find, but there are cairns that will show you the way, and remember the later in the season you go the wetter this portion of the trail in between Black Lake and Green Lake will be. We eventually hit Green lake at about 7:00, this is probably the make or break. Gazing up at the Northeast Face of Pagoda Mountain, you can see the route, a 50-60 degree scree climb with tons and tons and tons of loose rock. This face has about a little under 2,000 feet of gain in it alone, in less than a mile. This will take a while no matter your physical ability. This is where I should stress, know your limit. The ascent of Pagoda from its base at Green lake will take approx. 1 hr. 45 min., while the descent to Green will take 2 hours or more. You need to make good time to Green Lake in order to minimize risk on the ascent and descent of Pagoda. We contemplated for about 20 minutes, but decided to press on. (Half in part due to the annoying mosquitoes at Green.) 

Looking up at NE Face of Pagoda from Green Lake

(ascent route directly to the left of the face)

Now as we pressed up the face, the best advice I can give for this is: make goals. Don't look at the upper saddle between the Keyboard and Pagoda, look at a big boulder 200 feet in front of you. Get there, take a break, find another boulder. This mountain is half and half a mental and a physical challenge, and it's very different to something like Long's Peak in the sense that you spend so much time just working on going up and down this scree face. I highly reccomend a helmet, even more so if you're traveling in more than a pair, and try to spread out to minimize rock fall risk. This is tricky as well though, as sometimes there's only one good way up a section of the face, so do your best and communicate with your climbing partners on potential rock hazards. 

Once you reach the saddle, it will be an immense feeling of accomplishment, you conquered the Northeast Face of Pagoda Mountain! Take a minute, pat yourself on the back, take in the new views of the Longs/Meeker massiff. My Cousin and I nicknamed the giant pillars of rock guarding the saddle on both sides, the "Gates of Hell", because of the rigourous climbing needed to get there, and the way down... Your next goal is simple, the summit! From directly getting onto the saddle you're going to look to your right and notice the big boulders leading upwards, this will be the way to the summit. It is about the distance from Flattop Mountain to Hallett Peak in terms of gain, maybe a bit steeper. But the best part is the nice solid terrain that won't slide out underneath you most of the time. My best advice for this section is, again, watch your footing, and follow your intution. Keep going up, and you will reach the summit. 

The lonely, spiritual, summit of Pagoda Mountain

The summit of Pagoda Mountain is hands down one of if not THE best summit in Rocky Mountain National Park. A jagged pyramid with stunning 360 views of every mountain range in the park, the Longs Massiff, you can even see all the way to the Never Summers and Medicine Bow and beyond. The summit is also very small, with room for maybe a small group to all comfortably find spots to sit down. It is also very windy on the summit, it is very exposed. Luckily, there are large boulders to use as wind shelters. There is a summit log canister! But when we went up there in July 2021, there was no note book paper or pencil. For whoever reads this in preparation of their attempt, please bring some! The views are spectacular, but hands down the best feeling of Pagoda is the isolation. When you stand on that summit, you might be the only person or group to summit all week, or even month. Take it in, and revel in your accomplishment. 

Now comes the hardest part of the trip, and why Pagoda has so few visitors. The way down is harder than the way up. Obviously this can vary on the climber, but in most recounts that I've heard, the way down the Northeast Face of Pagoda is harder and longer than the way up. This can make for a dangerous mountain, as you are already tired from your hard climb. Follow the same rules as the way up, and remember to take it slow. Take as many breaks as you need, and be cautious and mindful of where other people are on the face. I would suggest not descending all the way to Green Lake but rather down and across the ridge to Black Lake directly, and hopefully finding the trail/cairns someway along the way. If you don't find them, it's okay, Black Lake isn't hard to find from this ridge and head down there and you'll be back on the trail in no time. We personally took 2 hours to get down from Pagoda Summit to the base of the mountain's face, making for a hard descent. 

Looking back from Mills Lake

Once you're back to Black Lake, revel in your accomplishment. You just climbed one of the most difficult and least trafficked peaks in Rocky Mountain National Park. Feel free to subtly drop that you came from that jagged pyramid peak in the background to some of the day hikers, just to revel a little bit. This is also where you'll start seeing people again, as the day hikers will be reaching their destinations. Just follow the approach trail back down to Mills Lake and then to the trailhead where you can kiss the pavement and remember what you just did. 

Pagoda Mountain is my favorite hike/climb I've ever done in the park. It is a truly spiritual experience and will show you what you really can do. The mental battle of the mountain just makes it all that more satisfying to conquer. The summit of Pagoda Mountain, a lonely point in a jagged and hilly skyline of Rocky Mountain NP, is one of the most breathtaking points you can visit in the park, and for everyone interested in this climb's sake, I hope it remains the undiscovered gem it is.