Man's Best Friend (5.7, 2 Pitches)

It's hard to argue against a fun, safe climb on beautiful rock and with a very short approach.

 

Located in the Calico Hills at the Front Corridor area of Sandstone Quarry, this well-bolted (arguably overbolted) route is great for a new sport leader or really for anyone just looking for a nice climb in a great setting. This route also gets a ton of morning shade, making it an ideal summer route.

 

Although the grade is 5.7, many people find the rating soft. If you have done a lot of climbing in areas known for stiff grades or even for "accurate" ones, you probably will find this route to be anywhere from 5.4 to 5.6. My then-12-year-old son led both pitches of this route with no worries. Back home at the time, he got a little nervous leading some 5.8 sport routes and had mustered the nerve to lead just one 5.9. He felt these pitches were much easier than the 5.7 he is used to.

 

Regardless, it's worth doing. As I already said, the climbing is fun and the rock is beautiful. 

 

And the views are awesome.

 

From the entrance to the Scenic Drive, go about 3 miles to the Sandstone Quarry parking area and trailhead. The route is visible from the road, but how to get to it is not immediately obvious. Using pictures on this page, find the white slab and scramble up it. Rappel down off anchors that are not immediately apparent, or scramble down just next to the rappel line (Class 4). There is an easier approach from the right, but it is hard to describe. Try to find it; if you can't; use the tried-and-true way.

 

 

P1-- 90'. The Mountain Project page says there are 8 bolts before the anchors, but we only saw and clipped 7. If there is a crux on this pitch, it's climbing past the first bolt.

 

P2-- 90'. 10 bolts and then anchors.

 

To descend, do two raps. While you can do a single rap with a pair of 60 or 70m ropes, you should consider yourself warned that just below the first anchors are several flakes and knobs that absolutely love to snarl ropes. It is easier to make a clean pull off the first anchors.