Morandi-Consiglio-De Ritis Route

Overview

It’s one of the more classic routes of Corno Piccolo: it climbs up the north face of Seconda Spalla, passing by the less difficoult points.

It was first climbed 10th june 1956 by Paolo Consiglio, Bruno Morandi and Franco De Ritis.
In the july 1976 Donatello Amore and Pier Luigi Bini climbed it down first time.
In june of 1978 Pier Luigi Bini climbed it down in free-solo.

Excellent rock, lenght of 230m, AD, IV.

Approach

From the arrival of the Arapietra chairlift (Prati di Tivo) (2012m), take the path nr. 3 towards Passo delle Scalette. At a junction (about 2070m), take the path on the right (Sentiero Ventricini) and follow it until you reach the base of Seconda Spalla north face (about 1h). The route starts near a rock, on the right of a big stone separated from the rock wall.

If the chairlift is closed, from Prati di Tivo drive to Sella di Cima Alta (about 1750m, 3,5Km from Prati di Tivo), then park your car and take the Arapietra ridge, walking on it until you reach the arrival of the chairlift (about 1h)

Route Description

Belay is equipped with bolts and chain only in the pitch 1

Pitch 1: go in the couloir, climb up two cliffs (III-), then cross on your right and belay (40m, III-, no pitons).

Pitch 2: walk until you exit, behind a big stone, on a slab exposed over the Tesoro Nascosto Couloir; cross the slab for 4/5meters (IV) and belay on a big terace, in front of the chimney (20m, IV, 1 piton)

Pitch 3: climb up the squeeze chimney (IV+, you can’t climb it carring a bacpack! ) or, as an alternative, go up on the slab on the left (V continuous). In the chimney there are 2 pitons and you can put some cords, on the slab you need some nuts/friends middle size. The belay (bolts with chain) is in the chimney, here wider (40m, IV+, 2 pitons)

Pitch 4: climb up the chimney (now is wider...) until you reach the equipped belay shared with other routes (50m, III, no pitons, some tunnels)

Pitch 5: straight on the slab (IV) until the start of the ledge (you can use friends and cords in some tunnels). On the ledge (III) you can find 2 pitons of other routes that cross (you can use them); at the end of the ledge, some meters above, there’s the equipped belay (50m, IV, 2 pitons)

Pitch 6: go up until you reach a little terrace under big stones: here the route finishes (30m, III, no pitons, chance to use big sized friends)

Descent

At the end of the route you can rappel towards Bonacossa Couloir (danger of blocking the ropes!), but I advise to climb the ridge for about 20m, reaching the end of the “Vecchiaccio” (coming from the south face) and “Aquilotti 72” routes, then make 2 or 3 rappel (60m) toward Bonacossa Couloir, then, runnig a ridge, to the bottom of the couloir.

Essential Gear

Traditional climbing rack (a few nuts, medium sized friends, cords, slings)

External Link

Corno Piccolo north face, Prima Spalla, Seconda Spalla, seen from Prati di Tivo

Images

View Morandi-Consiglio-De Ritis Route Image Gallery - 14 Images