Muttenhorn

Overview

Muttenhorn, together with the Klein Furkahorn, is creating the 2.431 meter Furka pass
which forms the gateway between the Rhône valley and the Urseren valley.
The most characteristic sight of the Gross Muttenhorn is definately seen from the small town
mountain resort Andermatt, at the east end of the Urseren valley, from where its often snow-covered
pyramidshaped east face is giving a majestic touch to the horizont.

Actually there are three “Muttenhorns” lining up; the Stotzig Muttenhorn, 3.061 m, the Chli
Muttenhorn, 3.024 m and finally the Gross Muttenhorn, 3.099 m.
The most accessible and convenient routes to reach the summit of the Gross Muttenhorn
are from the Furka pass, crossing the Muttglacier or the slightly longer route down from
the small town of Realp, acending the ENE-ridge. For a winterclimb, the skier would preferably
go for the first option.
From the summit the climber will get a rewarding view which includes the Mischabel group, Mont
Blanc, Weisshorn and the Bernese alpes. Obviously one also gets a superior view of the
huge Rhône glacier to the north with Galenstock as the immediate neighbour

Getting There

There are many different routes leading up to the big metal cross on the summit of Gross Muttenhorn. Here I will describe the two routes which are the most common and the most easy:

From the west: Around 3.0 hrs. Startingpoint is the Furka pass, 2.431 m, accessible from west via Brig and Oberwald or from the east from Göschenen (autobahn) via Realp/Andermatt.
Follow the small road to pt. 2.494 m and start crossing the Muttglacier in a southernly direction to the
saddle, pt. 3.005. From there follow the easy ridge straight to the summit.

From the east: Around 4.0 hrs. Startingpoint is the small town of Realp in the Urseren valley.
Walk toward the Witenwasseren valley. When you reach and cross the Muttenreus river, you
abandon the road for a small path which takes you through the Mutten valley. Follow the valley heading the Muttenhorn just in front of you. At the end and at the base of the mountain, climb the Muttenstöck, Pt. 2.611 m, where the ENE-ridge begins. The ridge is rather wide and unexposed all the way up to the the top.

When To Climb

The Muttenhorn is an excellent ski mountain during the winter/spring season and of course a
nice hiking tour during June to September. For the crossing of Muttglacier, rope, axe and crampons
are necessary.

Accomodation/Camping

Small towns with hotel accomodations, restaurants, camping and train connections:

Realp
Andermatt

Huts and hotels:

Hotel Tiefenbach by Furka
Rotondo hut

Oberwald: Hotel Furka, Tel. 027-9731144
cheap dormitory house from SFR 18.00 night.

Miscellaneous Info

Useful information:

Check out the webcam showing Andermatt and the Urseren valley. The Muttenhorn is in the horizont.

Maps:
Landeskarte der Schweiz 1:25 000 “Urseren” 1231
Landeskarte der Schweiz 1:25 000 ”Val Bedretto” 1251

Litterature: Alpine guide ”Urner Alpen West” (german/french) issued by SAC Schweizer Alpen Club







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Images

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