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Route |
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Route Type:
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Traditional Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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UIAA IV VD |
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Approach
From the North Face Car Park follow the path through the forest to the Allt a Mhuillin river. Continue along besides the river to the CIC Hut.
Observatory ridge is the steep ridge between The North-east Buttress and Tower Ridge. Follow the obvious path to a point just right of the lowest rocks on the ridge.
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Route Description
Move up through the lower rocks to an obvious shelf. This is where the winter route approaches from the left.
Continue just left of the crest over slabs and grooves untill a short ,steep wall bars the way. There is a polished, crampon scratched crack on the right hand side (Very difficult) or an easier diagonal traverse 20ft to the left to an old peg. Once on the ledge above, make an exposed traverse right around the corner and scramble up to another stiffish open groove. Climb this, keeping to the right of the ridge. move up and along to another awkward corner followin to an old peg and make an exposed move up the wall to a leveling of the ridge. From her scramble up the ridge keeping to the RH side and traverse a narrow ledge overlooking Hadrians wall. Follow the open groove above, which is sometimes ice filled to regain the ridge.
From here there are two options.
1. traverse left into Zero gully (Provided it is snow filled)
2. Continue up the ridge on easy ground.
Check the trip report on this climb for an idea what it is like
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Essential Gear
Mixed rack of medium Hexs and wires.
Ice axe and crampons if you want to climb the gully on the upper part.
Try to climb in short 25 metre pitches, its easier
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.