Pizzo Cassandra

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Val Masino Alps
- Additional Parents
- Disgrazia Group
Pizzo Cassandra

Page Type:	Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon:	46.25940°N / 9.76200°E
Activities:	Mountaineering, Skiing
Season:	Spring, Summer
Elevation:	10583 ft / 3226 m
	Sign the Climber's Log!

Overview

This summit belongs to the Masino-Bregaglia-Disgrazia chain and is a very fine mountain between the Monte Disgrazia and Bernina Group.

Entirely in Italy it grows up from the Ghiacciaio della Ventina.
Due to its wonderful scenery and low difficulty of the normal route it is often climbed in summer from people spending holidays in Chiareggio or Chiesa Valmalenco.

This summit is better known for its north wall and the fine ski mountaneering possibilities (BSA).

His summit can be easy reached with the SW ridge (normal route), starting from Passo Cassandra (3097 m) ... careful with fresh snow ... only one simple pass of rock climbing (easy).
Can be reached easily also by the NE ridge - from Forcella Balabio (3000 m) the pass ot the east side of Pizzo Cassandra
South sides are of no climbing importance

Passo Cassandra can also be reached in about 3 hours from Rifugio Ponti (2559 m) or Rifugio Bosio (2086 m), which are stations on the well-known Sentiero Roma hiking trail: From Bivacco Desio (ruine!) at Passo di Corna Rossa (2836 m) there is a marked route (only spots but no prepared trail!) along the SE side of Monte Disgrazia to Passo Cassandra (thank to Mathias)

Getting There

From Milan, follow the SS36 (Spluga e Stelvio) till Sondrio (136 km).
At the beginning of the town (rotation) choose on the left to Valmalenco.
After 12.6 km road reaches picturesque Chiesa in Valmalenco (960 m).
Follow signs toward Chiareggio (12 km)

At the south boundary of Chiareggio you can park the car and, through a bridge over a little river enter in Val Ventina
1 hour of comfortable walk brings you to Rifugio Porro (1960 m)

For the ones who want to climb north wall, spending the night in the Rifuge is the better solution.
The normal route can be easily done in one day starting directly from Chiareggio

the north wall

450 m drop - AD - 45°-50° - it is a perfect way to start knowing the snow-ice climbing.
Definitely more engaging and steep then the famous Ciarforon north wall (classic)

Descent can be done using the WNW wall (AD) - 300m - to the right of NNW spur.