President/V. Pres

Overview

This is the tale of two mountains really, President and V. President (named after Canadian Pacific Railroad executives). If one makes the effort to summit one of these peaks, you should consider the other as well. 2 for 1 special if you will.

First ascended in 1901 by James Outram, President and V. President are located north of the popular Emerald Lake and south of the Little Yoho Valley in Yoho Park in the heart of the Canadian Rockies. These high peaks of the President Range dominate the view at the head of Emerald Basin. They are also the most prominent peaks viewed from Little Yoho Valley (home of Takakkaw Falls, 2nd highest water fall in Canada).

The ice-covered summit of the President is 136 meters higher than the V. President which is covered by the extensive Emerald Glacier. The high col connecting the two is known as President Pass. The common goal is to gain this pass via the President Glacier, summit the President and if you have the gas, descend back to the col and summit V. President.

Getting There

Yoho National Park is one of four Canadian National Parks adjoined in the heart of the Canadian Rockies (Banff, Kootenay and Jasper). The Trans-Canada Highway spits the park in half. Heading west on the Trans-Canada, as you approach the only town in the park, Field, BC, you will see a sign for the Yoho Valley Road on your right. Follow this road for 13 km to the Takakkaw Falls parking lot.

Red Tape

You will need your National Park pass which you will have already obtained when your drove into the park from either direction. You will also need a backcountry permit and camping reservations which can be obtained in Field, BC at the Yoho National Park headquarters. I have provided you a Parks Canada link which will further assist with these items.

The Stanley Mitchell Hut is decked out with a propane system for cooking and lighting and provides sleeping space for 26 in summer and 22 in winter. It is very well equipped and has a woodstove for heating and plenty of space for hanging gear. Thinking this was too much like home, we preferred the camping at Yoho's #6 campground, however, I added the Alpine Club of Canada's link regarding hut accommodation.

Remember, this is bear territory, so bring bear spray and follow proper camping etiquette.

When to Climb

You can climb President and V. President in the summer or winter. I have added two book links, one for the alpine route and one for the ski route. If anyone has done the ski route in winter, please add it to this page.

Scrambles in the Area

Don't stop here...there are many scrambles in the area, so I added the appropriate book link. This is a wet section of the Canadian Rockies, most of the British Columbia side is. Therefore, it is good to plan a few nights so you can catch a good day for the alpine climb. We scrambled up Mount Kerr (2863m) during our first rainy day. Other options include Kiwetinok, Pollinger and McArthur.

External Links

100’s of Canadian Rockies multi-pitch rock climbs, ice climbs, alpine climbs and scrambles, just scroll down to routes

Parks Canada

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Images

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