Approach
Due to its location on the Northern end of the face, this climb can be approached via the tourist trail. Follow the excellent trail until you reach the final wooded section just before summit of the dome. Skirt around the North side of the dome - first through woods, then on an easy stone staircase. The right facing diehedral of the regular route is the first obvious feature.
Route Description
2 x 200ft pitches of stemming and easy liebacking lead to the end of the diehedral, followed by 200ft of 4th class leads to the summit. Ample belay opportunities if you have a shorter rope. There is a single bolt about 180ft up the first pitch, but the route has excellent natural protection (bring a nutkey on lead to clean cracks).
Easy walk off back down the tourist trail.
Essential Gear
A single set of nuts and a single set of cams (blue to red Aliens - .75 to 3 BD camalot). An extra .75, 1 BD would be useful.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
rhare - Jun 9, 2003 11:26 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentMy mistake. Left facing diehedral, not right facing as per my original post