South Ridge

Approach

Approach the climb directly from the Couvercle hut (the hut with the best view in the alps: CAF, 2687m, tel: 50 53 16 94). Ascend the rocky ground from directly above the hut (do not take the low path that traverses beyond the Aiuguille du Moine to another hut.) Cross a small glacier at the foot of the South Face, half an hour from the hut. It is worth doing a recce of this route up to the the afternoon before the climb so that you don't waste time in the morning.

Route Description

(I refered to The Alpine Club hand book, Mt Blanc Vol II, Lindsay Griffin, when writing this.)
At the foot of the south face where two routes start you can see a prominant couloir leading up the face. Start climbing up this normally snow free couloir and immediately turn left across a system of ledges for 200m. Over these ledges protection can be found from the odd bolt and from putting slings over pillars of rock. It is possible to move together here.

Where the ledges end ascend up and to the right up easy ground before turning left again to reach the ridge below a large gendarme which looks like a double headed hammer. It may be necessary to pitch the last move onto the ridge. On the ridge continue up and then alond a ledge on the south west face to a diedre. Climb a crack on the back (IV, 4m) and then a chimney above (III). Further up the wall is a vertical wall (V+, 3m) which can be bypassed by a very exposed crack on the left ((IV). It may be necessary to aid climb this wall. Rocky ridge leads then to the summit.

Essential Gear

Leave crampons and ice axes at the bottom of the south face. It is worth taking a few slings and a handful of nuts and camming devices (friends).

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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