Angel's Fright

Approach

Angels Fright is on the west face of Tahquitz. This means the approach follows the normal trail to lunch rock. Find a parking spot in Humber park. The trail you seek is below most of the parking. It's called the Ernie Maxwell trail. You don't want the devils backbone trail. Follow the lower trail, which contours around a dry creek, and a wooded hillside. Walk for about 5 minutes or so, then start watching for a use trail cutting uphill. You will pass under a large boulder and go another 2 or 3 hundred yards max. The use trail is rough, and possible to miss depending on the time of year. Thanks to ksolem for clarifications.

Once on the use trail, follow it, pretty much straight up until reaching a large rock that is flat on top. This is lunch rock. Above lunch rock is a long prominent left facing corner system. This is Angel's Fright.

Route Description

This route is a natural line that is obvious. It's a big sweeping inside corner that gradually trends right. But it doesn't quite reach the ground. To start, one must climb a chimney and then head into the crack system.
P1. Climb up the smooth chimney, there's a crack inside on the right for pro and jams if your technique for chimney climbing isn't what it should be. The original topo in Vogel/Gaines, shows to belay at the top of the chimney, but the first two pitches can be combined. Continue walking past a bush to a juggy but steep wall. The original topo shows to wander right but most climbers follow the crack straight up. Start by standing on a dead bush, reach up for jugs, and go. There is a newish piton off to the right, clip with a sling to prevent rope drag. Climb up, then right to the corner system at a ratty bush with some big blocks. 50+m. 5.6
P2. This is pitch 3 from the original topo. Follow the corner up, mostly easy. Belay at a small tree. 5.4
P3. Continue up the corner, then when things look harder, follow a finger crack off to the right hand side. The best way to protect this is to climb above the right crack, place a nut on a long sling inside the main corner, then downclimb to the right crack and climb up, this saves rope drag, and protects the steeper moves above. Follow the crack as it turns to horizontal, bury your hands, smear with your feet, and edge up and over to a fine ledge with a white pine tree. THIS IS NOT THE BELAY. Continue a little higher to an even bigger and wider ledge called lunch ledge. 5.5
P4. The next part is strange. There are overlaps and blocks all around. The easiest way is to leave from the right hand side of lunch ledge, then weave through the blocks and bushes. After about 20 meters, spy a diagonal to horizontal crack that ends at a small bush. Follow this to it's end, then straight up, clip a funky old bolt (the only bolt on the route, and rather pointless) then straight up the easy friction face to the top. 5.4

Essential Gear

A few slings for rope drag on the last two pitches
A medium rack with a little bit of everything up to 3 inches.

Why You Should Climb This Route

This fine old route is a great place to introduce beginners to multi pitch climbing, as the views are great, the climbing easy, but exciting, with spacious belay ledges. There is always good pro for beginning leaders with natural pro as well.
The rock is so sound, that this is also a favorite for free soloers, with secure jams, and great position.

Images

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