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1325 Hits
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75.81% Score
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6 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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36.15000°N / 115.428°W |
Activities:
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Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Fall, Winter |
Elevation:
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4128 ft / 1258 m |
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Overview
One of the numerous Calico Basin crags accessed from Red Springs, Black Wall is one of the farthest from the parking lot but still not a long approach. Although it has some quality moderates, it does not see the kind of traffic that the closer Riding Hood Wall, with its two classics and one new route already drawing a lot of traffic, does.
There are routes ranging from one to three pitches. Some are trad, some are sport, and some are mixed.
I have only climbed once here and on only one route, but I have made this page as a home for the 5.8 multi-pitch I did climb here and in hopes that others will add routes here.
As of this page's submission date, information is accurate or at least as accurate as what is on the Mountain Project page, but a bolt-happy local has recently suggested he may soon go out and put a lot of new bolts on this wall. Also, there are some discrepancies between MP and the Handren guide about some route names and locations. Since some of the FAists also put the pages on MP, I am going with their information as the more accurate but will note the discrepancies where they occur.
Getting There
Take Charleston Boulevard through Summerlin, after which it magically becomes SR 159. Before reaching the Scenic Drive for RRCNCA, turn right onto the signed road to Calico Basin. Turn left at the second major intersection. (The first has signs clearly warning about private property.) This second intersection is signed for Red Springs and is really hard to miss. Drive a short distance to a large parking lot.
Hike north. As the trail swings left and a gap in the Calico Hills comes into view, the wall will also appear up and left close to the gap. It is easy to see, and pictures on this page should make it even easier. A climber's trail leads to the base and a thumb-like formation.
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Routes
From left to right:
- Tres Hombres, 5.11- (sport, trad-- 3 pitches)
- Greek Tragedy, 5.8 (trad)-- The Handren guide has this as P1 of Spontaneous Enjoyment and has GT as P2 and P3 of All That Jazz.
- Geriatric Therapy, 5.8+ (trad-- two pitches)-- I think P1 is Greek Tragedy. The Handren guide lists this entire route as Spontaneous Enjoyment.
- All That Jazz, 5.8 (sport, trad-- 3 pitches)-- The Handren guide has this as P1 of Geriatric Therapy and calls P2 and P3 Greek Tragedy.
- Spontaneous Enjoyment, 5.8 (trad-- 2 pitches)-- The Handren guide has this entire route as Geriatric Therapy.
- One Hand Clapping, 5.9+ (trad)
- The Life Chuckle, 5.9 (trad)
- Mothers of Invention (Guys from Josh), 5.10c (sport)
- Mom and Apple Pie (Todd's a God), 5.10a (sport)
- Cram It, 5.8+ (trad)
- Happy Acres, 5.7 (trad, 2 pitches)
Red Tape
Two years ago, the Red Springs area did not open until 7 A.M., but last spring, it was open at 6.
When to Climb
Spring, fall, and winter. The crag faces east, so avoid this in summer except very late in the day.
Camping
The nearby Red Rock Campground off Moenkopi Road offers the only camping in the area; this road branches off south from SR 159 not far from the turnoffs for Calico Basin and the Scenic Drive. The campground is usually closed in the summer.
1 Routes